Gearys Guiding

Gearys Guiding ACMG/IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide service. We offer ski touring and climbing guiding in Canada and worldwide.

Gearys Guiding only has two guides; ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide Alex Geary, and ACMG Ski Guide Madeleine Martin-Preney. We like to keep it small so we can offer the highest quality service possible. We've been living in Revelstoke since 2010, which we chose because of the amazing ski touring and climbing in the surrounding mountains. We have been guiding ski touring cumulatively for over 25 years, including 10 years guiding together. We enjoy long aesthetic runs and loops with guests, while keeping the risks at a level that is comfortable for our entire group. We both have a background in teaching and instructing, so whether you take a course or join us for a guided adventure, we like to share our thought processes and work as a team with everyone in our group to maximize our safety and enjoyment. Whether you like to climb 1000m/day and ski mellow powder runs, or climb over 2000m/day, summit mountains, ski steep and technical lines or big traverses, we like to do it all. When we're not guiding for Gearys Guiding, you can usually find us working at one of the huts for Icefall Lodge or adventuring somewhere for fun. Alex Geary is an ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Revelstoke, BC since 2010. I started my guiding career in 2006, cat-skiing in the Chilean Andes. I've been guiding climbing and ski touring pretty much full-time since 2010, including about 100-120 days of ski touring every "winter" made up of teaching and guiding. Before guiding, I worked as a ski instructor and became certified by the ISIA (CSIA 3 equivalent), trained other instructors, coached racing (CSCF 2) and freeriding. I've also guided heli-skiing, worked as a Public Avalanche Forecaster, Ski Patrol Manager (including running an avalanche control program with explosives), and a Mountain Safety Specialist for the mining industry. Before guiding I was a Mechanical Engineer, although I find guiding much more rewarding. I guide mostly in Canada, but I love to visit new places and have also guided in Chile, New Zealand, Europe, Australia and Nepal. When I'm not guiding I'm usually spending time with my son or skiing/climbing for fun. Madeleine Martin-Preney is an ACMG Ski Guide and Hiking Guide. Madeleine grew up in the Selkirk Mountains in Nelson, BC, before moving to Revelstoke in 2009. She spends as much time as she can moving around in the mountains skiing, climbing, hiking and running. She has been part of many big adventures such as a kayak/ski trip from the Gulf Islands to the Whitemantle Range, and she was part of the first team ever to complete the full ski traverse of the Selkirk Mountains (520+km and 43,000+m elevation gain). She also has experience travelling in the mountains in India, The Yukon, The European Alps, The Andes, and many remote parts of Canada. Madeleine’s strengths shine through when she's instructing, which she has developed from many years teaching avalanche and ski touring courses, trips for Outward Bound, youth education for Avalanche Canada, becoming certified as a Yoga Teacher, a Life Coach, and examining for the ACMG Training and Assessment Program (TAP). Check out the film Mind Over Mountain to see Madeleine in action on the Bugaboos to Rogers Pass Traverse in 2021. We worked together on this film in conjunction with Sweetgrass Productions and Patagonia Films. If you need a guide to show you around Revelstoke or further afield, or you have something you want to learn about the mountains, please let us know and we will look forward to meeting you and another great adventure!

If you need to probe for crevasses at a regroup, it’s probably not the safest place to stop.If you probe a crevasse, you...
09/28/2025

If you need to probe for crevasses at a regroup, it’s probably not the safest place to stop.

If you probe a crevasse, you’re lucky you didn’t already fall in. If you’re not on a crevasse, there could still be a weak bridge less than a metre away where part of your group might stop. If you have enough uncertainty that you feel like you need to probe, you should already be roped up (not very fun to ski down), or you shouldn’t be there.

To figure out a good place to regroup on a glacier, you need to have a good understanding of how glaciers flow, where crevasses form, places bridges are likely to be weak, and where they’re likely to be strong. On a run with big sags such as the one shown in the photos, it’s also helpful to look at the glacier from the bottom before dropping in, as it’s much more difficult to see crevasses while you’re on the glacier skiing down.

When you drop in, you need to be alert, scanning scan left and right as you’re skiing to look for sags, because they’re much more difficult to see looking straight ahead due to the shadows. You can then build a mental map of the crevasses and decide where to stop.

In photos 1 & 2 you can see our group stopped below the bergschrund and immediately above the two big sags. This meant our group could cross the sags slowly, so there was less chance of someone crashing and breaking a bridge, or losing their skis and bootpacking on the bridge.

After another 10 turns I couldn’t find another place I felt comfortable regrouping, so I ran it out into the flats.

You can read more in The Art of Glacier Travel Handbook. It’s available as a pay-what-you-want download, making it accessible to everyone regardless of budget. A paperback version is also available at .outdoors or Amazon.

Lots of firsts this week for  🙌✅ First trad lead✅ First 5.10b (multipitch too)✅ First lead on a multipitch route✅ First ...
09/27/2025

Lots of firsts this week for 🙌

✅ First trad lead
✅ First 5.10b (multipitch too)
✅ First lead on a multipitch route
✅ First multipitch alpine rock route
✅ First time climbing Mt Begbie

It’s amazing what you can achieve in 5 days based out of with a flexible plan and good fitness. Even more impressive as Kate only really started rock climbing this year.

All of the routes we climbed are in the traditional territory of the Sinixt indigenous people, who were declared extinct by Canada in 1956 until the Desautel decision was handed down by the Supreme Court in 2021, restoring their rights in Canada. Because of this, many of the indigenous place names for significant features such as Mt Begbie have been lost.

Fresh snow today on Mt Begbie ❄️ An amazing way to finish the week with  Traditional territories of the Sn̓ʕay̓čkstx tm...
09/27/2025

Fresh snow today on Mt Begbie ❄️
An amazing way to finish the week with

Traditional territories of the Sn̓ʕay̓čkstx tm̓xʷúlaʔxʷ, also visited by Secwepemcúl’ecw, Ktunaxa ɁamakɁis and Syilx Tmixʷ Nations

Stepping up the difficulty today with  🙌-📍 Sn̓x̌ʷn̓tkʷitkʷ-
09/25/2025

Stepping up the difficulty today with 🙌
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📍 Sn̓x̌ʷn̓tkʷitkʷ
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Beautiful weather and warm rock today on the Wolf’s Ears 🤩
09/25/2025

Beautiful weather and warm rock today on the Wolf’s Ears 🤩

It was fun showing .yu and Dan some of the climbing in  this morning.5.9 in revy can be steep 😯 Especially when they’re ...
09/20/2025

It was fun showing .yu and Dan some of the climbing in this morning.
5.9 in revy can be steep 😯 Especially when they’re coming from a couple of months in Squamish.

Revisiting some of the older climbs at Waterworld this morning above Sn̓x̌ʷn̓tkʷitkʷ (Columbia River). Madness definitel...
09/19/2025

Revisiting some of the older climbs at Waterworld this morning above Sn̓x̌ʷn̓tkʷitkʷ (Columbia River). Madness definitely needs to be rescrubbed 😬

Late season alpine climbing in the Tantalus Range with  past few days 🙌
09/01/2025

Late season alpine climbing in the Tantalus Range with past few days 🙌

Address

PO Box 2956
Revelstoke, BC
V0E2S0

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Our Story

My name is Alex Geary and I’m an ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Revelstoke, BC. I love sharing adventures in the mountains with motivated people in all seasons including ski touring, mountaineering, rock and ice climbing.

I started my guiding career in 2006, cat-skiing in the Chilean Andes. Since then I’ve been guiding all sorts of climbing and ski touring, which is what I love to do most. I used to work as an ISIA certified ski instructor, and I’ve also guided heli-skiing, worked as a Public Avalanche Forecaster, Ski Patrol Manager (including running an avalanche control program using explosives), and a Mountain Safety Specialist for the mining industry. Before guiding I was a Mechanical Engineer, which helped convince me to spend my life in the mountains.

I’ve been guiding ski-touring full-time during the winters since 2010, and mountaineering and climbing the rest of the year. I guide mostly in Canada, but I love to go to new places and have also guided in Chile, New Zealand, Europe, and Nepal.

If you need a guide to show you around Revelstoke or further afield, please let me know and I will look forward to meeting you and another great adventure! Alex Geary ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide