03/05/2026
Last week one of the Murdoch papers had a go at Scottish salmon. At first, I thought it was another sweaty sock hit piece - but turns out it was absolutely spot on.
Pictures of diseased fish with red eyes and rotting flesh swimming in nets in our lochs. Comments from industry lackeys trying to brush it under the carpet - “nothing to see here guv!”
But crofters and locals living near these farms have a different story to tell. Having worked on a few aquaculture projects over the years, I’ve witnessed it first-hand too.
And once you’ve seen it, it’s hard to unsee - yet this sordid tale didn’t start yesterday. The grip on our salmon was seized centuries ago and we’ve been living with the consequences ever since.
Before David I of Scotland introduced feudal rule, land wasn’t owned in the way we understand it today. It was held through kinship - tuaths and clans - communities bound to the land and water around them.
Rivers weren’t restricted or off limits. If you lived by them, you fished them. Salmon fed families, sustained local populations, and moved with the rhythms of the seasons rather than demands of distant markets.
Then David came back from exile down south and rewrote the rules. He invited in outside power - Benedictine monks, Norman families like de Brus (ancestors of Robert the Bruce), and the infamous Knights Templar.
In return for loyalty and military muscle, they were handed land that had belonged to clans for generations.
With that land came the rivers… and with the rivers came the salmon.
What had been a shared food source was soon fenced off and exclusive rights enforced. Locals were marginalised and catching salmon became a crime. Clan land, clan rivers, and clan food handed to powerful outsiders with the stroke of a pen.
This wasn’t stewardship. It was extraction. Taken from local people and sold to wealthy elites across Europe.
They built weirs across rivers to trap salmon in bulk and turned a living system into a commercial pipeline. But even then, they knew not to break it completely. Weirs had to be opened between Saturday and Monday to let salmon pass upstream and spawn. Not out of principle – to preserve profits.
Fast forward, and the pattern is all too familiar. The last independent Scottish salmon farmer was bought out in 2022. Today the industry is controlled by multinational corporations, institutional investors, and billionaire playboys.
Same grip. Different hands. With decisions made far from the communities most affected.
And the farmed fish we’re left eating today? Nothing like the wild salmon that once ran these rivers! Bred to grow fast and fat. Fed on processed fishmeal and vegetable oils. Packed into pens where disease spreads fast - sea lice, infections, chronic stress.
Those images in last week’s paper aren’t rare. It’s what happens when you push a system too far.
Even nutritionally, it’s a massive step down. Less omega-3. Less vitamin A & D. Less calcium and iron… but more contaminants!
At the same time, wild salmon stocks in Scotland are collapsing to the lowest levels ever recorded. We’re told it’s because of climate change… but that old chestnut doesn’t wash either.
During the Medieval Warm Period – when temperatures were higher than today - populations across Europe skyrocketed. More mouths to feed meant more grain, and more grain meant more mills.
So, they industrialised their rivers and large vertical watermills were thrown up at scale - damming, diverting, and dredging waterways. In the process, they tore up gravel beds, choked migration routes, and hammered the very ecosystems salmon depend on.
Scotland took a different approach. Here, milling was a local affair. Smaller, horizontal mills - simple contraptions powered by fast-flowing burns - serviced families and tight-knit communities rather than sprawling populations.
Our ancestors didn’t need to dam entire rivers or rip up the riverbed to feed everyone. Waterways kept their shape, spawning grounds stayed intact, and salmon kept running as they always had.
So, blaming the collapse of Scottish salmon on global warming doesn’t stack up. It’s about interference. Control. Turning a natural system into a machine for profit.
For over a thousand years, Scottish salmon has been taken out of local hands. First by kings, monks, foreign nobles, and funny handshake military orders. Today it’s multinational corporations and global investors.
And the result is there in plain sight. Diseased fish in our lochs. Wild salmon disappearing from our rivers. So, is it time we paused for a rethink?
Let the lochs recover. Let wild stocks rebuild. And get our omega-3 from wild fish that actually lived as nature intended?
Because this isn’t just about the atrocities of industrially farmed salmon.
It’s about who (or what) controls our food.
Suzanne.x