Zach Shaver, PT, DPT

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Zach Shaver, PT, DPT

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13/08/2022

It doesn't seem to matter how much I know about pain and injuries. When it comes to my own, my worry seems to feel outrageous at times.
Does anyone else relate?
For me, reminding myself of the principles I talk about here and with the people I work with has led me to where I am now. This has been reassuring for me as I have navigated my own recent injuries.
I'm about 95% back to normal. I'm back to moon boarding. And I feel like I am back to my normal training routine.
Most of all, I'm excited about the confidence I am building as we inch closer to the fall climbing season.
Just a friendly reminder to stay patient and persistent.
Happy climbing!

15/07/2022

Building a strength session for climbing can be simple.

It doesn't need to take a long time, and with the right planning, you can be building a solid foundation of fitness and strength to support your climbing. All in as little as 30 minutes.

Stick to compound movements.

Honing in on a Push, a pull, and a squat/hinge is a great place to start.

For those who love doing "core", building supersets is a great way to do this.

For those who don't know, a superset is when you perform one exercise while resting from another. I.e. performing planks in between sets of squats.

Perform strength 1-3 times per week, leaning towards 2-3 in an offseason of climbing, and 1-2 while in season.

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11/07/2022

TAPING DOES NOT PREVENT INJURIES...

H-Taping can be a useful tool though as part of a much broader plan in aiding and managing a finger pulley injury.

Best of all, it can be a great way to keep you on the wall and climbing while rehabbing your injury.

Taping is not meant to be forever. Once the initial injury has healed at a tissue level (give or take 2-6 weeks), you can begin to wean off the use of tape.

Most important of all, taping should not be the only thing you are doing to manage your injury. Tissues need load in order to adapt and be fully restored. This can be done through the use of either a hangboard or tension block (last slide).

It is always a good idea to speak with a qualified professional who understands climbing injuries and rehab.

Have questions? Please feel free to send me a DM or comment down below!

06/07/2022

No one said it would be easy. It can be simple though.

There is no one perfect answer to the question of what to do during an injury.

BUT...

Here are some guiding principles that will help you navigate the uncertainty that comes with getting injured.

Stay persistent. Practice patience, and don't give up. Injuries are frustrating, but tissues heal, and bodies adapt.

If you've been navigating injury on your own and still feel lost, Send me a DM. I would love to be a resource. I work with climbers and other athletes for both overcoming and injury prevention.

03/02/2022

Are you missing the key ingredients to getting over a climbing injury?⁠
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If you've been struggling with an injury and don't know why it hasn't recovered, what does your rehab look like?⁠
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Does it include ultrasound, dry needling, massage, mobilizations, manipulations, adjustments, taping, or cupping?⁠
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These are all different types of passive treatments. While these can all feel good, they are not a long-term solution. Only a short-term bandaid. ⁠
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If you want to get back to being active and climbing, your approach for a long-term solution needs to be an active one. ⁠
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It should include things like progressive strengthening, progressive overload, and activity modifications.⁠
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And you should absolutely still be climbing, not avoiding it!⁠
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Does this hit home for you? Let me know in the comments down below!

28/01/2022

Previous injury is often the top risk factor for sustaining a future injury.

Does that mean you are doomed?

No.

But ask yourself this, how did you manage things when you did have an injury?

Did you rest until the pain went away, or did you do something about it?

A good rehab program should lead into training. That training should ultimately become a great injury prevention program if done well.

23/08/2021

𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐥𝐨𝐨𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐜𝐫𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐝𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐦𝐚𝐤𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐧 𝐬𝐮𝐜𝐜𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐟𝐮𝐥?⁠⁠
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Many types of training can work. One aspect crucial to success though is the principle of progressive overload⁠⁠
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To get the changes we want, training must get harder over time. ⁠⁠
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Doing the exact same thing every single time will get you results at first. Eventually, though, your body will adapt and you won't get any stronger.⁠⁠
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This applies to both weight lifting and climbing. ⁠⁠
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Do you go into the gym and only climb V2? At first, it may have been challenging, but eventually, it becomes easier. If you don't move on and challenge yourself with the next grade, you aren't going to improve much. ⁠⁠
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You don't need to change the exercise you do every single time. But ways you can apply principles of progressive overload are by:⁠⁠
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Increasing the weight⁠⁠
Increasing the number of sets⁠⁠
Increasing the number of reps⁠⁠
Increasing the frequency ⁠⁠
Progressing to a harder variation (goblet squat>>barbell squat)⁠⁠
Adding tempo (perform 3 seconds down, 3 seconds up)⁠⁠
Adding a pause (hold at the bottom of the squat)⁠⁠
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Now be honest with yourself, are you making things harder over time with your training?⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠
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08/07/2021

Fingers are one of the most injured body parts in climbers. Pulley injuries make up 30% of them.⁠⁠
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Pulleys are ligaments, named A1-5, that function to hold flexor tendons down close to the bone. This serves to prevent these tendons from bowstringing.⁠⁠
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The A2 pulley is the most affected, followed by the A4 pulley. ⁠⁠
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Symptoms often include discomfort with the full crimp position.⁠⁠
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Pulley injuries respond well to rehab but consult with a licensed professional first.⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠
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