The Bee Place

07/16/2025

It's All About The Bees, The Bees, The Bees ....

Look at this bee. It's absolutely loaded!

Bees eat nectar and pollen and help pollinate plants by carrying pollen from flower to flower. Got bees? We'd love to see 'em!

📷 Mike Budd/USFWS

07/15/2025

Just so ya know ;)

07/15/2025

Capturing a Swarm and what that is all about.

From the Q&A Department at The Bee Place...
Q: What is bee swarming?

Swarming, simply put, is the method in which honey bees reproduce and procreate the species. Once a colony of bees reaches the maximum capacity of a current living space (think - filling the cavity of a hollow in a tree with honey comb and bees) and there are ample resources available, such as plenty of food producing blooms in the spring, the colony receives signals from this growth state that they are healthy enough to reproduce.
(Follow this link to view the page on our website with photos of the various stages described here https://www.thebeeplace.com/Swarm/ )

Once the signals trigger the colony to swarm, several wheels are set into motion. First, the current queen, knowing she will be leaving soon and taking the bulk of the worker force with her to start anew, will lay special eggs called Queen Cells or Swarm Cells (see below) for the remaining members to raise her successor.

Second, the mother queen (which typically lays upwards of 2,000 eggs a day) will be put on a diet of sorts and slow down her laying / brood production. She will need to trim down to get into "flying shape" and prepare for a journey that could be several miles to a new home.

And finally, after about a week when she is ready, the colony puts out the signal that it is time to go. At this point a mass exodus takes place and several thousand bees, including the queen and roughly 75 percent of the workers, and several dozen drones (male bees) head for the exits and form a cloud.

This cloud of bees, known as a "swarm in motion" will find a place to land and rest while they send out scouts in search of a new cavity of a specific size and basic shelter requirements to accommodate their future needs. They may rest on about any surface or structure, and occasionally on the ground, but typically about 8 – 12 feet off the ground on a tree limb.

After what could be a few hours or even several days of scouts reporting future home sites and additional members checking these sites for their needs, a voting system is used to select the site of choice. It is not until the entire inspection team all agree on one single best location, and only then, the swarm takes flight again and they all move into the new home site. On rare occasion, the scouts and inspectors do not find and/or agree on a cavity soon enough and the colony will begin to build comb where they rest. This creates what we call an exposed or “open air hive” see below. Not typically found up north, but a beautiful sight that is occasionally found in our region.

Shown here: https://www.thebeeplace.com/Swarm/Open%20Air%20Colony.jpg
Progressive photos from an Open Air Colony relocation/removal.
The bottom two images are the before photos, followed by the images taken after gently vacuuming bees and carefully dissecting the comb structure and rebuilding it into hive boxes. The entire process took several hours and resulted in two deep hive boxes full of bees. The main image in the center illustrates the heart of the brood nest with the typical rainbow pattern of food stored above the darker nursery area.

It should be noted that while in the swarm mode and resting, the colony is not at all aggressive. They have no young or food to protect, so not until they have a new place to call home and the queen begins laying and the workers bring in food stores they are not likely to offer a sting, even if approached. I rarely wear any protective gear when capturing swarms.

Q: What should people do if they see a hive on their property?

First and foremost, even though a swarm is normally docile, a cluster of bees is not automatically going to be a "swarm". It is possible to mistake an open air colony (see above) for a swarm in resting mode. Therefore, it is always best to maintain a safe distance and contact an experienced beekeeper. We have a good deal of local beekeepers in the San Antonio area that are qualified and permitted to assist when needed. Contact Us for more information regarding swarm capture and bee colony removal services.

Secondly, be aware that a swarm differs from an active “hive” or properly termed an active colony of bees. Meaning, technically the “hive” refers to the housing/structure and the bees are the inhabitants or the colony in the hive. With that said, the bees and housing are typically referred to as a “hive”.

If the bees are clustered on a structure, like a tree limb, that is typically a swarm resting and not aggressive. If the bulk of the bees are not visible, and only a few are seen coming and going through an opening, like a crack in a wall or hollow opening of a tree, then keep away and know they have taken up residence in that space and will defend their home and young just as we do with our own homes and loved ones.

And finally, leave it to the experienced beekeepers to assist with removals and swarm capturing because you never know what you may run into in terms of genetics. Be aware that we do live in the south where Africanized Bees are known to be a part of the feral bee population and despite the Colony Collapse Disorder that effects managed hives, they are still surviving in the wild here after being in this area for over 30 years.

See attached for a short video showing the capturing of a small swarm.

Q: Is there any other information you think might be relevant to share?

Honey Bees are a vital part of our ecosystems and need our support in terms of managed hives by beekeepers, but also as a community. We all need to be aware that putting out poisons in our landscapes and gardens can have effects beyond our view and even our imagination. If a pesticide, fungicide or herbicide must be used to control some sort of unwanted guest in the yard or garden, please consider using granular forms versus liquids or any especially hazardous powders and dusts that will cling to a bees hair like pollen and will be carried back into the nest and have devastating effects on the entire colony.

We need our pollinators and we have many less expensive organic choices other than chemicals when controlling unwanted pests, w**ds and even fungi in our environment. A little research in these areas can make a huge difference.

Ultimately, we need to teach the next generation to be stewards of the environment we pass on to them and encourage them to be an active positive part of the ecosystems. The joy of sharing with others can bring rewards beyond expectations.

https://youtu.be/aUcObX4FwQw?si=z2BVRBpVqlIz8jv7

Sometimes they just come right to you 😉This swarm landed on a limb just above some hives and nucs on "Bee Pick Up Day" while we were waiting for customers t...

07/14/2025

Re: Mite Meds
From the Q & A Department ...
What is next for the mites?

We're often asked by customers that purchased bees from us ... "What treatment do we use next for the mites and when?"

Since the bee we provide are treated before we offer them to the public, which is typically at the beginning of the Spring season or first quarter of the year, the colonies are normally good for a full quarter (3 months) after the pick up date appointment.
So, generally speaking, when it comes to mite treatments, we like to check the bees using the alcohol wash method at least quarterly and treated as needed.

Note: Mite immigration from other colonies can and does happen, when it does, treating quarterly is not always sufficient, so this is a variable that needs to be considered. Assuming all is well simply because there are no visible mites on the backside of bees is one of the most common beginner mistakes. Because the lack of knowing typically leads to the lack of treating, which leads to colony losses. (see Q & A re: Wax Moths https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1B9cPBw346/)

When dealing with Varroa mites in honey bee colonies, like most anything in life, the more you understand your options, and in this case the enemy, the better equipped you are to make an educated decision for combat. Understanding the life cycle of the honey bee and the Varroa mite both are important factors that make it helpful to develop an effective plan of action.

However, that is only step one. Since there are multiple types of mite treatments available for honey bees and there are different modes of action for them, understanding these are equally as important in making your plan of attack. Knowing the differences helps to know when and why these treatment options will be effective and which to choose based on the findings of the mite checks.

We have the option of the "flash" type treatment (more aggressive) as well as the "extended-release" type of treatments. The latter is more of a preventative maintenance vs corrective maintenance application. Meaning, one type is to fix a problem while the other is to prevent a problem or maintain a low enough level that it is considered safe and acceptable. Occasionally they are both used at once, but caution and understanding the details is necessary to prevent over doing any one thing.

Selecting the "best" mite treatment for a hive is usually determined by the current mite load in the specific hive(s) to be treated. While some beekeepers prefer to simply treat on a scheduled preventative maintenance basis, others like to know their exact numbers and treat accordingly and only as needed. Thus saving time and money. So, depending on the mite load, a less aggressive or more aggressive treatment may be more suited.

Also know that each type of treatment has it's own recommended dosages and application methods, based in part on conditions, such as temperature and if honey supers are present - like during a nectar flow for example, colony strength and overall health and of course the current mite load or - the number of mites per bee ratio in the colony.

Overall, mite treatments for honey bees can be broadly classified into chemical and non-chemical methods. Chemical treatments include synthetic miticides like Apivar (amitraz) and Apistan (fluvalinate), as well as organic acids like oxalic acid and formic acid. Non-chemical methods involve using essential oils, drone brood removal, screened bottom boards, and selective breeding for mite-resistant bees.
(more details can easily be found using a search for "mite treatments available for honey bees" online)

So what are the “best” options?
What is best for one beekeeper, or a specific colony even, may not be the best for another colony, or a certain beekeeper’s goals, circumstances, ecosystem, etc.
So, there’s really not one simple one size fit’s all solution across the board for everyone and/or even every hive. Please keep in mind that research has shown there are more than one strain of Varroa mite and multiple viruses they vector, so while having so many options does require a bit of understanding, at the end of the day, it also offers more weapons in the arsenal in the defense against the biggest enemy of the honey bees.

Many beekeepers like the organic treatments for many reasons, but they are typically harder on the bees. Some are easier to use than others and some may require additional equipment or gear. Some are hard on queens and brood, so we must be careful and always go by the label for the best results. Over use and / or continued use of the same treatment time after time has proven to cause the mites to build a resistance to the point the treatment is no longer as effective.
So, it is recommended for everyone to rotate the treatment types each round to prevent this from becoming a problem for the entire beekeeping community - as it has already been proven to happen with two of the first treatments used back in the early 2000s. They were taken off the market due to the lack of efficacy. They were Apistan (fluvalinate) and Checkmite+ (Coumaphos).

IPM, if you are not familiar, stands for Integrated Pest Management. It's a strategy develop for managing pests that uses a combination of methods, including preventative, biological, and chemical controls, to minimize the use of pesticides and reduce risks to human health and the environment. IPM is not just about pest control; it's a holistic approach that focuses on long-term prevention and sustainable solutions in agriculture in general, but applies to beekeeping as well.

As mentioned above, IPM starts with the low-level method approach first, (i.e. drone brood removal, screened bottom boards, and selective breeding for mite-resistant bees, etc.) can often be effective methods and reduce the need for more, but not always and not in every colony in every apiary. Therefore, we go up the IPM ladder to the next level to the organic treatment methods as need and save the chemicals as a last resort.

So... What are the approved organic options?

Formic Acid – 2 application methods
- Formic Pro
- Mite Away Quick Strips (MAQS)

Formic acid treatments are very effective when used correctly, but they do require careful temperature management and application to avoid harming the bees. The high temperatures should not exceed 86 degrees Fahrenheit while the treatments run their course. Meaning, the treatments need to be applied in cooler weather so the damage to brood and queens will be minimal. Many beekeepers coincide the application of formic treatments when it is time to replace queens.
“Formic acid is the trickiest miticide to use in hot weather, so I continue to experiment with various application methods to improve its efficacy“ says, Randy Oliver, research biologist and commercial beekeeper.
Note: Formic acid is corrosive and can irritate skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) when handling this product.
Also Note: Of all the treatment methods, Formic acid fumes are the only option currently available that pe*****te the capping covering the developing pupae in the nest, which is where the mites are doing their reproductive dirty work.

Oxalic Acid – 3 application methods, 1 "extended release" and 2 “flash” types
- Extended-Release aka OAE (cardboard strips soaked with OA mixed with vegetable glycerin)
- Dribble / Trickle (mixed with sugar syrup and dribble directly on the bees between frames)
- V***r aka OAV (sublimation via heat gun or hot plate – fogging the hive)

Note: Since the oxalic acid fumes do not pe*****te the capping covering the developing pupae in the nest, this treatment method requires multiple applications (as many as 7, five days apart) to be effective during the brooding season. Therefore, the OA v***r treatments are most effective when preformed on a colony without capped brood or very little capped brood in the nest.

The OAE Strips - The new Oxalic Acid and vegetable glycerin product that was recently approved, early 2025 caught on quickly, in part because of the ease of application of the treatment and also because this treatment is safe to use while honey supers are on the hives. VarroxSan has been very popular and was sold out in a matter of months and was backordered from around May through July of this year. This is considered a maintenance treatment rather than a flash treatment and can be left on the hives for longer periods.

Thymol - a naturally occurring chemical compound found in essential oils, particularly from thyme and oregano.

- Apiguard is a thymol-based gel that slowly releases its active ingredient, offering a natural way to combat mites organically. The slow release of the active ingredient ensures consistent protection for your worker bees. For best results, apply Apiguard gel when temperatures are suitable for optimal distribution throughout the hive.
- ApiLife Var, another thymol-based product, is also gel-based and utilizes a blend of thymol, menthol, eucalyptol, and camphor. This blend remains liquid at colder temperatures, potentially making it more effective in cooler climates. Requires repeat the treatment 3 or 4 times at 7-10 day intervals.
These products are not approved for use during a honey flow. Thymol natural treatments should be used after a honey harvest.

Hop beta acids – These acids, extracted from hops, are believed to kill mites through physical damage to their exoskeletons.

- HopGuard3, is derived from hops, like beer is made from, and is another effective organic method, but like OAV and for the same reasons, it does require back-to-back treatments when there is capped brood present. HopGuard is generally considered safe for bees and can be used even when honey supers are present.

So, as you can see, with multiple options within the options, it’s best to understand which to use and for which situation the options are best suited to serve your needs. The ultimate goal is to have mite resistant bees, or better yet, bees that take care of the mites without our help, but we’re not all there yet.
Meanwhile, the short-term goal is to help our bees manage the mites and keep the numbers in check so their populations stay in the economic threshold of less than 2 to 4 mites per 100 bees. This allows us to use the less aggressive treatment methods to keep healthy productive hives.

Selective breeding from stock that show the desirable traits for dealing with mites and the viruses they vector is what we, and many others, believe to the the long term sustainable solution. We are seeing progress in this and hope to be treatment free in the near future. Until then, hopefully the above will help you understand what is best for you and your hives.

Happy Beekeeping,
The Bee Place
210.289.0583

07/11/2025

From the Q & A Department ...
We're often asked by new beekeepers, after they discover a dead-out (a hive without bees) "What happened here, what are these worms?"
Or, we hear, "Wax Moths killed my hive, why and what now?"

Understand these things can be helpful in preventing this from happening again and help with salving the remains. There is no need to throw away the equipment, but a good cleanup will be best.

Wax Moths (there are 2 types) are the buzzards in the honey bee world. Meaning they are scavengers and are normally only present when a colony becomes too very weak to protect their comb or is completely gone. To determine the reason the colony is no longer present or not strong enough to fend off pest, like the Greater Wax Moth, can be difficult because we're not able or even wanting to get into our hives every day.

Typically, but not always, it is one of two things - 1. varroa issues, or 2. lack of food or nutritional issues. The viruses the mites spread start to cause enough problems to weaken a colony when the mite numbers reach the economic threshold of around 4 mites per 100 bees. Studies have shown having only 2 mites per 100 bees in a colony can cause a drop in honey production, so we like to keep the numbers low at all times.

We gauge these numbers using a mite wash. This is done by placing a half of a cup of bees (around 300 worker bees) in a cup of alcohol, or even better high suds soapy water, like a Dawn dish soap solution, to see how many mites drop off the bees after a minute of standing then another minute of swirling the bees in the liquid above a strainer basket - see link for a short video of the process.

The number of dead mites in the sample will show your ratio per 100 bees in the colony. Then we treat accordingly. A mite count of less than around 8 to 10 mites per 100 bees can usually be controlled with an extended release treatment, like VarroxSan or Apivar strips. Mite counts in higher ranges will be more effectively treated using a flash treatment, like a O/A dribble, or even a Thymol or Formic acid treatment. (cooler weather required for the latter two)

Sometimes a colony will swarm and the remaining hive is not able to get a new queen produced for one reason or another, so they eventually die off as they age out and no bees are being born to replace the ones that die from old age... or more specifically, work them selves to death.

When this happens, the wax moths are free to move in and lay eggs which become the "clean up crew" for any remaining food left behind. When we discover this in time, we like to salvage any remaining frames with decent wax and clean up the mess from the rest. Placing any good frames with wax in a freezer for about 72 hours will normally kill off any remaining moth eggs and / or larvae and can be reused after they thaw out.

If the damage is beyond salvaging any wax then it's best to simply scrape off the webbing mess and cocoons so the frames can be reused. Adding a light coating of wax will be helpful, as the bees may not build out wax on the foundation after the infestation has occurred.

Keeping strong hives is the best prevention to most issues in the bee hives.

Randy Olivar's Mite Wash Video:
https://youtu.be/oiu_dIZu7Uk?si=tQHYDeLaFlRENHZj

07/09/2025

Taking orders for 7/19/25 pick up times.

07/06/2025

We will have Italian Queens, Hives and Nucs available for pick up on July 19th. No class on this date, pick up only. Meanwhile, we're in the process of updating our website to include taking orders for the Spring of 2026.

Meanwhile, pick up dates with September and October dates are available on the website now that will include the class option.

If you'd rather have spring of next year, check the website in a week or so and you'll have the best options for early dates.

If you want to get bees or queens asap, please do not rely on a message here to this post. Instead, to make sure we receive your request, please place the order on our website and we will send an email for a pick up time appointment.

The Bee Place is a local family owned honey bee farm established in 2014 located in the Somerset, TX area just minutes from San Antonio - phone 210.289.0583 ext 1.

Visit our website to place an order or call with questions.
http://www.TheBeePlace.com/Welcome_fb.htm

Thanks,
The Bee Place

07/04/2025

Bee Safe and have a Happy 4th

06/26/2025

Africanized Honey Bees - The history and biology... yes they are still around - be careful out there when mowing and using small gas engine devices.

You may be familiar with Dr. Juliana Rangel - Head of the Dept of Entomology at Texas A & M... she's from South America and has a great lecture on these little flying demons... If you have not seen it, it's worth a watch.

Safety tip of "run" should be used as a last resort and is not the best option because bees can fly much faster than a person can run. Oh and do NOT jump in a pool or body of water thinking that they will go away, because they will not leave any time soon.
Keep your mouth closed and protect your eyes as well as possible while you get into a safe place.
The best option is to get into a vehicle or home or any other closable space where they can not follow and/or enter by the hundreds.
If a few bees get inside the space, that is a lot better than hundreds. If bees in attack mode do follow you into a vehicle, start the engine and blast the A/C, then roll down the windows about 1/2 inch so any that came in when you did will have a way out.
As soon as they enter the strange enclosure they will switch from "attack" mode to "escape" mode and want out. If the windows are only down a 1/2" inch, no more bees will enter the space and all the ones that followed you in will get out asap (less than 2 minutes)

They can and will sting through the lightweight traditional bee suits/protective gear. We use the ventilated suits when working with aggressive bees since we are in south central Texas, where they first arrived in the states in 1990. We have had to deal with them for nearly the last 40 years. So this is nothing new. I've done over 200 "bee removals" (aka nest extractions) from people's properties, typically under storage sheds, roof eaves, water meters, etc. So I have dealt with these first and for many years and can attest they are "KILLER BEES".
We now have to import queen bees from out of their range, such as Hawaii or areas up north, like northern California, where they do not live, to get the genetics needed to safely raise and keep honey bees in the southern states. By doing this, we are watering down the gene pool, but they are still out there in the wild and the real problem is that when they mix breed with our gentle bees, the defensive behavior is a dominate trait, so they are often aggressive for several generations.
We recommend checking all the areas around a home often and regularly - especially before starting the small gas engines to do any mowing, w**d trimming or chainsaw type work. Get a bee veil and keep it handy - especially if you are going to do any lawn maintenance type work where these bees may be present.

A lecture given by Juliana Rangel at the 2015 National Honey Show entitled "Africanized Honey Bee Biology". The National Honey Show gratefully acknowledge th...