16/02/2026
If your acne products only work… sometimes - this might be why.
I treat a wide variety of skin in clinic, and one thing I see constantly? People using the wrong active for the type of breakout they actually have.
Not all pimples are created equal. And they don’t respond to the same ingredients. Right breakout. Right active.
Here’s what’s actually happening beneath the surface:
Problem: Excess oil / congestion
Shiny skin with enlarged pores - that heavy clogged feeling.
Fix: Niacinamide helps regulate sebum production and support barrier balance without stripping your skin.
Problem: Comedones (blackheads & clogged bumps)
A compacted mix of keratin and oil sitting in the follicle. These are the ones that made famous!
Fix: Glycolic acid helps dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells so they don’t build up and block pores.
Problem: Blind pimples (micro-cysts)
These ones SUCK. I'm talking the deep, painful ones you can feel before you can see.
Fix: Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it can travel into the pore lining and clear debris where it actually sits.
Problem: Inflamed pustules & redness
For those who have reactive breakouts that can leave lingering pigment.
Fix: Azelaic acid helps calm inflammation and regulate pigment activity. This is especially important for preventing post-acne marks (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
You dont need a thousand different products to have healthy skin. It is about understanding what your skin is doing and choosing the right actives and treatments.
So... your breakouts keep coming back, it might be time to reassess the plan.
Save this for later and if you’re unsure what type of breakout you’re dealing with, I’m always happy to guide you.
- Cass x