13/11/2025
“Lake surfing is hardcore,” a friend who now lives by the ocean. And I hate to admit it, but once it’s time to don the thick wetsuit, boots and mitts, I kind of hate it.
The winds, cold water, and unforgiving waves humble you. Some seasons I feel pretty good: light and fast, catching everything and noticing progress.
Other seasons, like the start of this one, I feel cold, weak, unfit, stiff, tired, and perpetually punished by the white water: Waves in the face, more wipeouts than rides. I struggle into the suit, only to have most of my sessions play like blooper reels. (One example on the last slide, lol).
But, many thanks to .weare for capturing what was probably my only wave of the day and reminding me of the tiny moment: the one wave that I caught, that connected, that I rode for a split second. Nature and me, in harmony.
So, it reminds me that, like so many things, the win is showing up. Getting in cold water that shocks your system, resets the stress response, and trains the nervous system to recover faster. Practicing presence. Mastering mindset.
So, even though I kind of hate it. I also really love it. And sometimes the pictures are a reminder of that.
So any potential Surfistas on the fence about getting wet: Who wants to join me?