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Camino 2018 - Karen Lang & Sue Fox, Fuengirola (2025)

25/10/2018

Barcelona -

We have been loving Barcelona for 3 or 4 days now. It is a GREAT city to spend time in.

It has been the home of many famous people - Christopher Columbus came here to ask for funding to sail around the world and then returned when he found the Western continents.
- Pablo Picasso lived and worked here.
- But our favorite is Antoni Gaudi. He worked here as an architect. His influence is everywhere.

We have toured the Cathedrals (for rich and for poor), the Gothic section, El Born, seen Roman ruins, eaten authentic seafood paella, wet our feet in the Mediterranean Sea.

Monday we arrived. We walked around a bit, then met up with three friends that also happened to be in Barcelona for Tapas and gelato.

On Tuesday we toured Casa Batlló and La Predera. Both were designed and built by Gaudi.

Yesterday we met a friend who lives here. She took us all over. We learned a lot about the Catalonian people and their customs. They do not view themselves as Spanish but wholly Catalan. We went for Catalan snacks - Cava (this regions Champange) and anchovies. I loved the Cava, not so much the anchovies. Karen didn’t like either. But it was fun to be a part of a non-tourist and authentic experience of this area.

Today we did a sunrise hot air balloon ride followed by a tour of the monastery at Monserrat.

Tomorrow we have tickets for two more Gaudi buildings - the Sagrada Família and the mansion in Guell Park. It has been a very full and amazing visit.

Enjoy the pictures so far. Tomorrow the last ones will go up.

22/10/2018

This is the video of the Botafumeiro swinging.

22/10/2018

October 22

I guess you’re all wondering if we made it to Santiago.

YES!!!! We did!!! We arrived at 11:11 am on Friday morning. 11 is my Angel number, so how amazing was that arrival time!!

We were all a little teary-eyed as we realized the end point of this journey. We took pics. We re-connected with others from our Camino Family that had arrived on Thursday or earlier on Friday.

First things first - we got in line for the Pilgrim mass at noon. In truth, it was VERY unpleasant. We were too late for seats and the church remained open for tours and sightseeing during the mass. The movement of people in and out, as well as their talking was very distracting. We went back again around 6:45 for the 7:30 pm mass. We managed to find seats (just barely). The mass was in Spanish. I understand about every 3rd word. But there is something universal about the cadence of the Penitential Rite or the Our Father. The music was beautiful.

At the end of the mass they swung the Botafumeiro. This is a HUGE incense burner - about 3 feet tall. Eight men pull down on the ropes which cause it to swing from end to end of the transept. It looks like it will hit the ceiling. Quite an amazing thing!

The history of the botafumeiro is amusing. The early pilgrims traveled for weeks in the same clothing with no baths. They not only attended mass but lodged in the churches as well. The use of incense after the mass was to cleanse the church of the stench. Hahaha!

We stood in line forever to get our certificates. We got 2 - one in Latin staying that we completed the journey and a second one stating that we completed 799 km. (Of course, by now we all know that that is most definitely an understatement!!)

We have enjoyed a few days of rest and being a tourist. We took a bus trip to Muxia and Finnesterre on Saturday. Karen was a little jealous of the hikers heading to Finnesterre. Me - happy to take the bus!! Sunday we toured Santiago and shopped!! Donated some clothes that got worn for 30 days straight and bought some new shirts.

Today we head to Barcelona! Will post some adventures from there. Home on Saturday.

Thanks for following along. It’s been quite a journey. I’m thinking the lessons will be more apparent as we enter back into our real lives. I know our perspectives have changed. Things are not important. People are!

18/10/2018

October 18 - ONE MORE HIKING DAY TO SANTIAGO!!!!!!

Today was a great day - mostly sunshine and walks through tiny towns and beautiful forests. It was only to be about 10 miles, but true to distances on the Camino, turned into something closer to 15.

We’ve treated ourselves to a hotel tonight. For 25 euros each we have no bunk beds, small rooms (2-3 people) and private baths. It’s a huge step up from sharing an outside shower or tiny bath with 20-40 others.

I think our bodies know that we have a short way left to go. The miles seem longer and the hills harder to climb. Tomorrow one last hill to climb and one last descent and then Santiago.

Let me catch you up on the days we didn’t post this week.....

Monday - the word of the day was “uphill”. Even my guide book said “follow this road (uphill), then this road (uphill) then another road (still!! Uphill!!)”. It honestly does!

Tuesday we arrived in Melide - a fairly large town. We had a wonderful albergue, found pizza for dinner, had our new favorite beverage - tinto de verano, and gelato. Tinto de verano is red wine with carbonated lime aid in it and sliced lemons or oranges. Kind of a quickie Sangria.

Wednesday was Anything Can Happen Wednesday. Started out just fine - blue skies, about 23 km to walk (15 miles), nice rolling hills. As we approached our final destination we found that the albergues were all closed. Next town is 5+ km (3 more miles). About that time it started to rain. By the time we arrived in the next town it was a downpour. Our tops were dry (great rain gear) but our legs were drenched. We had beds, but only because we called a Camino friend once we knew the first albergue was closed. She reserved beds for us.

We ran across to a cafe and got logged into the internet while waiting for our food. That’s when I learned that 2 new granddaughters arrived overnight. I am proud to announce the arrival of Grace Elizabeth (3 lbs 14 oz) and Emmiline Marie (4 lbs 3 oz). Mama (Kate) had some complications but sounded very good when I spoke to her this morning (1am EST).

Tomorrow is supposed to be a short day. Hahaha! How many times have we said that?!?! We have 10 km (6 miles) to Santiago. BUT the Cathedral is the endpoint. I think there’s at least 5 km inside the city to reach the cathedral. We plan to leave before 7 and arrive early. SO VERY EXCITED!!

Buen Camino!!

14/10/2018

October 14 - 6 more hiking days to Santiago

Today was AMAZING!!!!

We left this morning in the rain. We have come prepared for hours of downpours. Thank goodness we didn’t have hours of downpours, just hours of light to moderate rain. Around 3 the sun came out. There is more rain in the forecast for the next few days.

We were again walking through the woods. The trees were big and gnarly. Occasionally the birds were noticeable. We saw sheep, cows and dogs. We smelled the chickens (ugh!) and heard the pigs squealing. It was a fun day wandering thru this rural area, seeing the farmhouses with their fields and gardens. This is what I thought the entire Camino would look like. We are LOVING this!!!

Our trek also took us through Sarria. We stumbled upon a monastery there. Quite beautiful. Many people start the Camino in Sarria. It is just over 100 km (60 miles) from Santiago, which is the shortest distance one can walk and still receive the Compostela in Santiago.

One of the most wonderful things about this journey is the people you meet along the way. As we walk, we cross paths here and there, over and over again. Today, as we stopped for lunch, we found two of our favorite people eating at the same cafe. There were squeals and hugs all around and lots of catching up over a bowl of soup.

Speaking of soup - I mentioned the locale soup a day or so ago. It is called Caldo de Gallega. It is broth with collards and potatoes. LOVE IT!! Today while we were scarfing it up we saw the cook outside picking the collards for the next batch. Gonna make this when we get home.

We had a short day today - about 14 miles. Tomorrow is closer to 18. Should be shorter days after that. Friday we walk into Santiago!! More about that on Friday or Saturday.

Buen (wet) Camino!!

13/10/2018

October 13 - 7 more hiking days to Santiago

Happy Birthday to Karen!!! What a unique way to celebrate your (29th?) Birthday!!!

Today was our descent (mostly) from the climb to O’Cebreiro. We had a few less miles to hike today and, truthfully, we were ready for a break. The last several days were long days and hard climbs.

We have arrived in Samos. Tonight we toured the monastery. It is still active and it is very impressive. Some of the monastery is used as an albergue.

We found two significant trees today - one is a chestnut that is over 100 years old and the other is a cypress that is 1000 (not a typo) years old.

Our walk took us up and down through a wooded path. Very pleasant. The feared downhill was not too bad. At one point someone yelled “Get out of the way!” We jumped aside and looking up saw a herd of sheep being corralled by a German Shepherd up to the pasture. It was quite amusing. You know the song “Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer”? That could’ve been us - Two Grammys got run over by a sheep herd. Hahaha!

13/10/2018

October 12 - 8 hiking days to Santiago

O’Cebreiro! We came! We hiked! WE CONQUERED!!

There are 3 peaks that must be climbed on The Way of St. James - over the Pyrenees, to reach Cruz de Ferro, and O’Cebreiro. We tackled the Pyrenees our the gate on day 2. A few days ago we tackled Cruz de Ferro - the tallest peak of the trip. Today we conquered O’Cebreiro - the steepest peak of the trip.

It was nearly a 20 mile day and the first 6 were uphill. The pitch was steep. But surprisingly we got to the top in record time (for us!).

There are horses that will take pilgrims up and for half a second I was tempted to ride one up. How unique to take a horse! But then I knew I would have wished to hike it.

We found a small cafe half way up that made crepes! We have found that we are craving something other than the standard that every restaurant offers. What a welcome treat!!

The views were stunning. The church at the top was lovely. We enjoyed a snack at the top and then off we went. Just when we thought we were done with uphill climbs we found some more. Then there were downhill paths - none as treacherous as coming down from Cruz de Ferro.

We are now in Galacia. Looking forward to some seafood. The region is known for that - especially octopus. They make a fabulous soup with potatoes, other veggies and a leafy veggie similar to collards. Sue loves it. Karen, not so much.

Tomorrow the downhill.

11/10/2018

October 11 - 9 hiking days to Santiago

The weather forecast was calling for rain today. When we got up it was not yet raining, but by the time we were ready to go it was pouring. Soooo..... we decided to eat breakfast. Then we stalled a bit. Somewhere between 8 and 8:30 we set out. It was a light rain. For the first few miles the rain would stop then come down hard. We were hiking through vineyards. It was muddy. But as the clouds parted the views were amazing!!

We did nearly 18 miles today. Too many for one day but it was necessary to be properly positioned for our climb tomorrow. We have the same miles planned for tomorrow so I’m sure we will be running on fumes as we get to our albergue in the evening.

10/10/2018

October 10

Yes!!! We’re still alive and on the Camino. A lot has happened since our last post. I’ll fill you in on yesterday and today then let the pictures and their captions fill in the other days.

We have had many days where internet service has been challenging or where we’re just too tired to do anything but go to sleep by 8 pm.

Yesterday we finished climbing the highest point of the Camino to reach Cruz de Ferro. This is another milestone on the Camino. At Cruz de Ferro there is a tall telephone pole with an iron cross on the top. People bring a stone from home and leave it in the pile below the cross. It represents any of a number of things - burdens, forgiveness, giving up a bad habit, the loss of a loved one, etc. it was a very moving experience to unite with so many at this place.

Afterward we had the descent, about 12 miles of very steep descent on slate and loose rocks. We were so very tired of going downhill when we finally reached our destination.

Today marks the beginning of the countdown. In 10 more days we will arrive in Santiago. We have one more large climb in 2 days then, once down from the mountain, it’s little ups and downs into Santiago.

This morning we entered the town of Ponferrada at breakfast time. The Camino takes us into the oldest sections of the towns. We came to a castle built by the Knights Templar. Because it was Wednesday there was no admission fee so we took the tour. Quite an impressive fortress and some amazing views.

Our journey has been very different than we pictured in our minds but it has been so much more! We have met amazing people and heard astounding stories. We’ve heard views of politics and history from a different perspective. We’ve learned that things are hardly important and that if you only have to share your room or bathroom with 5 other people you’re really lucky. It’s been amazing so far. Can’t wait to see what we experience in the next 9 days!!!

29/09/2018

September 29

The Meseta is not quite what we expected, but then again, nothing about this trip seems to be as expected. The unexpected is what makes it an adventure.

We’ve still had hills to climb and surprisingly, there are hidden valleys everywhere. You walk and see nothing. Then all of a sudden you’re looking down at a town.

The camaraderie of the Camino is unique. We met people on day 1 that every few days we cross paths with again. There are others we met at a cafe stop. Each encounter feels like a reunion. We share a common purpose. We understand the challenges everyone is facing. My favorite part of the day is stopping at the cafes or celebrating a large communal meal in the albergue with the other guests.

It is very dry and dusty in this region. You can see all the footprints in the dirt. Makes me feel connected to all who have hiked before me - not just those that went out this morning but all the pilgrims that have walked in the thousand plus years that it has been traveled.

Tomorrow onto Carrion de los Condes. This should mark the halfway point (all depends which map you use). There is a convent there where the “The Singing Nuns” entertain each evening. Should be fun.

Buen Camino!

27/09/2018

September 27

Today was our first day in the Meseta. LOVED, LOVED, LOVED this day!

We left before sun up. The moon is still nearly full. It was peaceful leaving Burgos. We walked along the river. The first town appeared about 8 kilometers out. Perfect timing for breakfast.

We stopped again in Rabe for a snack. Found bananas. YAY! Learned how to say “banana” in Spanish.

As we left the town we came to a small, very old chapel. Inside, it was clear that it was dedicated to Mary. The artwork was amazing. There was a tiny older nun inside who was stamping our Camino Passports, handing out Mary medals and offering a Pilgrims blessing. My Spanish is not great but I understood that she was asking for safety and blessings for each Pilgrim.

From there we had a small climb upward and upon cresting the hill we had our first glimpse of the Meseta. It is an expansive Mesa. There are fields everywhere - mostly hay and sunflowers. Not a lot of color but still beautiful in its peacefulness. We plugged in our music and celebrated all the way to our stop.

Each day (except for the rainy days) we have seen butterflies and wishies. The butterflies have been solid colors in white, yellow, brown, and green. Today we saw purple ones. The butterflies and wishes remind Karen and I that the ones we love and have lost are joining us for this journey.

Early on we saw a sign that said “The Camino is the teacher.” So what have we learned?
- A hungry Pilgrim will eat anything.
- Most pilgrims want lights out and quiet by 9 pm at the latest.
- Stop and look at where you’ve come from.
- Keep on walking. Don’t rush. The village will appear in time.
- Revel in the moment.

Buen Camino (Good Journey) to all.

26/09/2018

September 26

Today is another rest day. Seems like the only time I have the energy to post is when we take some time off to refresh. Here’s what’s been going on......

Last I posted I remember thinking that following the Camino requires more trust than following the lady in your GPS. At least with GPS you see the path, know how much further to go, and when you will arrive.

The next morning we set out early (before sunrise). Guess what?!?! We missed a marker and found ourselves several miles off course in a vineyard. Several hours and many miles later we found our way back to the Camino. You can be certain that the next morning we checked and double checked every intersection.

There is something wonderful about setting out before sunrise. The sky is beautiful. The world is exceptionally peaceful. We also get in several miles before the sun comes up. It makes the hiking go by faster. Most days have been very hot - near 90. As we left Ages this past Monday, we woke up to very cold temps. I assume it was around 50. The high was 68. Glad we brought a coat, gloves and a hat.

We have rested in Burgos. The cathedral here is amazing. It is one of the oldest and most beautiful in Spain. We spent several hours in there today. We have hit the pharmacy, the grocery, and if course, the bakery on our day off. We have all the supplies we need to hike through the next several days of small towns.

The next section of the Camino is called the Maseta. It is often referred to as a desert. It is a high (mostly) flat elevated plain with nothing but fields. Many people skip this part of the Camino as it is boring. I believe it is the most important section. It forces you to go inside and think. It is a great time for introspection. We are looking forward to the lessons it brings.

20/09/2018

September 20

Today is a rest day. So we will try to catch you up on the adventure while we are resting our feet and bodies.

On Sunday we left Cizor Menor and hiked up to the top of Alto Del Petron. We left before sun up as the days are still very hot. Alto Del Petron is a milestone in the journey. At the top are windmills (for energy) and metal silhouettes of pilgrims on the Camino. Beautiful vistas. A great place for lunch.

From there we moved on to Puente la Reina. The hostel had a masseuse - a welcome sight to the weary foot traveler.

On Monday we set out for Estrella. We stopped in a small medieval town that was celebrating with Fiesta. Apparently is not unusual to have frequent celebrations. There was a mariachi band, flowers for the women and everyone dressed in white and red. We wanted to stay for the party but needed to move on.

In Estrella we stayed in an old monastery. It was lovely.

We left Estrella and went first to Irache. The nuns there make wine. The public water fountain has one spigot for agua and one for vino. Bet you can guess which one rarely gets used. We got some of the wine - TOO bitter for my liking. Gave ours to some kids who quickly told us if we didn’t like it we apparently hadn’t drank enough of it.

Finding lodging has become a challenge. The large dorm rooms often have beds but sleeping is tough. It is usually hot and stuffy. Being well rested is essential as the days are long taxing. We have been trying to book ahead.

Last night we came into Logroño. Just happens to be a week long, city wide, Wine and Food Festival. The mariachi band was playing under our balcony until 4:30 this morning. Glad it’s a rest day!! This country knows how to party!!!

Tomorrow is an 18 mile day. We will start out before day light. The topography has changed from forests to mostly fields so there is little shade. We will post again when we find WiFi.

Buen Camino!!

20/09/2018

Day 5

Today was a very welcome break from hard work. We walked into Pamplona. We explored the old town. Of course, we sampled pastries everywhere we went.

We stopped in the Museum of Navarre history. Everything in Spanish and German, but we enjoyed what we saw. We made our way to Cizor Menor to our albergue we are settling into a routine - hike all day, get sweaty, find a place to sleep, shower, eat dinner, journal writing, bed by 9 or 10. Get up and do it again.

Tonight we enjoyed a Pilgrim Dinner, a special menu for those hiking the Camino. We enjoyed paella, a main course and a fabulous local dessert. 10 Euros for Pilgrims.

Tomorrow we go back up in elevation. There will be some cool pics!!

Buen Camino!

16/09/2018

Day 4

We didn’t quite make it to Pamplona. Stopped just a few miles short in a TINY hamlet called Trinidad De Arre.

Our walk today was a lot of ups and downs. We walked through wheat fields, forests, along streams. We stopped at a very cool Abby (picture below). A “foreigner” (not from the Basque Country in Spain) bought it and is restoring it through donations. The community is not happy with the outsider but his work is amazing. He gave us a little tour.

We are learning each day that our combined limited command of the Spanish language is complimented by the VERY limited English of the residents of these tiny villages. It is often amusing to watch us try to find something, but something, etc. A full blown game of charades often takes place.

Tomorrow is supposed to be a “Down Day”, so we’re only gonna go about 7 miles - just the other side of Pamplona.

14/09/2018

Day 3

Today was to be an “easy day”. Hahahaha! Also, it seems that the distance markers calculate distance to the next town as the crow flies. So it may only appear to be 5 miles to a town but the ups and downs add a lot of distance.

We walked through forests, and pastures. We climbed hills and the descents were quite steep. It was a beautiful mostly sunny day with a cool breeze. We have stopped in Zubiri.
Tomorrow we are aiming for Pamplona.

14/09/2018

Day 2

We left the Refuge around 8:30 am. and began the rest of the assent over the Pyrenees. The day was foggy. The clouds hung low. Made is perfect for the work we needed to do. It took us until 5 pm to arrive in Roncesvalles, Spain. There were no more beds so we grabbed dinner and the a cab to the next town - Burgete. Where we stayed had a great picture of Ernest Hemingway and a piano he signed. We did about 14 miles, another 2000 ft elevation increase filled by a whole lot of descent. Horses, sheep, long horned cattle and donkeys were right against the road.

14/09/2018

Day 1

We started out at 7:30 am from St. Jean Pied du Port for The Refuge, an albergue in Orisson. This is the first part of our climb into the Pryanees. 5 hours and 1800 ft. Up in elevation we arrived.

Camino 2018 - Karen Lang & Sue Fox

25/10/2018

22/10/2018

22/10/2018

18/10/2018

14/10/2018

13/10/2018

13/10/2018

11/10/2018

10/10/2018

29/09/2018

27/09/2018

26/09/2018

20/09/2018

20/09/2018

16/09/2018

14/09/2018

14/09/2018

14/09/2018

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