Flynns Equine Veterinary Physiotherapy & Sports Massage

Flynns Equine Veterinary Physiotherapy & Sports Massage Equine Massage and Physical Therapy for horses. I am fully insured and a member of the Association of Merishia Therapists, IAAT, IRVAP and ASSVAP.

Permanently closed.

Katy Waters – Dip A Phys, Cert EMT, Cert EPT, Cert SAH, MIAAT, MASSVAP, MIRVAP



I supply Veterinary Physiotherapy and Equine Sports massage to horses in Surrey, Hampshire and the surrounding areas. I use a combination of Veterinary Physiotherapy techniques, Electrotherapies, sports massage, Myofascial Release, Musculoskeletal manipulation and PROM. I work with your vet and will always gain veterinary permission before working on your horse. ABOUT ME

I have owned animals all my life with many of my animals coming from a rescue background a good part of my relationship with animals has involved rehabilitation and retraining of both horses and companion animals. Coming from a family with a background in veterinary nursing and neuropathology, I have always been interested in moving into equine therapy and following an injury to my own horse I undertook training to become a qualified equine massage and Applied Physical therapist. I then continued to qualify as a Veterinary Physiotherapist with TCAP. I have competed at local level in show jumping, cross country and showing and am well aware of the stresses and strains both competition and general work can place on the horses’ musculoskeletal system. I have backed and brought on a number of youngsters and currently own an ISH filly.

06/03/2021

Unfortunately due to the impact of Covid, EHV and now strangles, i have decided it is no longer viable to continue as a vet physio and will be closing my books as of now. I will complete the appointments that are outstanding but will not be booking anyone else in.

Thank you to all my clients for their custom over the years.

I hope to see you all out and about at shows once allowed.

All the best

Katy

Good morning everyone. Today i wanted to talk a bit about 'owners intuition'. No i'm not going all airy fairy! It is a d...
15/12/2020

Good morning everyone.

Today i wanted to talk a bit about 'owners intuition'. No i'm not going all airy fairy! It is a definitely a real thing!

When you have owned a horse for a few years you get to know the way he moves, his little idiosyncrasies, his behaviour and facial expressions
When something is wrong most owners/ riders will generally feel that something is a little wrong/ different even if they can't pinpoint it.

Your horse may seem sound and his usual self but something is slightly different.
Perhaps he is a bit 'lazy', not happy to have his bridle on when usually he is fine, suddenly pinning ears back when saddle goes on, moving away from mounting block when he would usually stand, seems a little depressed or lethargic etc etc.

I want to ask you to always take note of these differences and trust your instincts! You know your horse better than anyone and, even if everyone else on the yard thinks your horse is fine, get it checked out by your vet or physio.

These differences can be really slight.
For instance my 4 year old suddenly didn't want her bridle on when usually she was fine.

She was being ever so slightly more 'mouthy' under saddle but not really that different, so it was really the bridle issue that made me think.

Watching her i also noticed she was chewing more to one side than the other. Despite only having had her teeth done 5 months before i decided to get her checked.

Sure enough, a tiny piece of extremely sharp cap was stuck in her lower gum. Once that was out she was perfectly happy to have her bridle on again.
If i had ignored these signs and just ridden her through it she could have ended up with a nasty painful abcess, not to mention any number of avoidance behaviours under saddle.

These little signs always mean something.

Horses aren't bad.. remember, as per my previous post, so called naughty behaviour is always a result of frustration, pain or fear.

With the right medical care, feed, exercise, socialisation, training and time most behavioural issues can be avoided, reduced or removed.

If in doubt get it checked out!

On that note please see below availability for the next few montha:

December
None
January
Sat 23rd between 11:00 -14:00
Sun24th 7:30am to 13:00
Sun31st all day
February
Thursday 11th 6pm on
Sat 13th 7:30am to 12:30
Sun 21st all day
Tues 23rd 6:30pm on

I hope you all have a lovely christmas break and here's hoping for a much better year in 2021!

Obligatory horse in tinsel photo below :0)

Every horse is an individual but the below guide can certainly help to inform your choice of when to rug and what weight...
28/11/2020

Every horse is an individual but the below guide can certainly help to inform your choice of when to rug and what weight of rug.

IS IT TIME TO REACH FOR THE RUGS?

As the overnight temperatures dip to ~10°c we are pulling out the fleeces and jumpers from our Winter clothes drawers! Should we do the same for our horses? If they are fit, healthy, unclipped and in good body condition then maybe not just yet or only the lightest rug! We should not judge what “clothing” our horses need based on how we feel for two very good reasons. The first is of course that the horse has a fur coat. The second, is that due to its size the horse does not lose heat as rapidly as we do. So at the same temperature the horse will feel warmer than we do!

* Horses are very adaptable to different climates
Horses are incredibly adaptable when it comes to climate and are found in both some of the hottest and the coldest places on earth ranging from -40°C to 60°C. Being warm-blooded the horse tries to keep its central (core) temperature as close to 38°C as possible. However, in very cold climates the extremities of the body such as the feet may fall as low as 5-10°C or reach as high as 60°C when standing on hot sand.

* What determines how cold a horse feels?
In simple terms the horse will feel cold or hot when the air temperature falls below 0°C (the lower critical temperature - LCT) or rises above 25°C (the upper critical temperature). This is known as the horses' thermoneutral zone – within this range its easy for the horse to control its body temperature by simply opening and closing blood vessels in the skin to lose or retain heat “carried” in the blood. Outside these temperatures the horse must use other means to keep warm or cool. At temperatures above 25°C the horse may increase its heart rate to circulate more blood to the skin, more blood vessels in the skin may open, the horse may also start to increase its respiratory rate and it may start to sweat. In addition, the horse may also change its behaviour, for example seeking shade or walking into water. When the temperature drops below 0°C the horse needs to keep heat in. It may do this by increasing its metabolic rate (effectively turning up its central heating and using more fuel), seeking shelter from wind and or rain, letting its limbs drop to a lower temperature by reducing how much blood flows through them and if it gets really cold, by shivering. However, this range changes between Summer and Winter and horse may have a lower range in Winter once they become used to cold weather or cold acclimatised.
In contrast, for an unclothed person, the lower critical temperature is around 25°C!!!
So a horses body temperature is a balance between how much heat is being produced and how much is being lost. If its cold, then the horse loses heat more rapidly and must increase its heat production and or decrease its heat loss (by letting its extremities get colder) to prevent its temperature falling.

* What determines how much heat is lost and how much energy a horse needs to use to keep warm?
-Weather
The colder the air temperature the bigger the difference between the horses surface (skin or coat) temperature and the air and the faster heat moves from hot to cold. This is known as convective heat loss. Add in wind and the heat is lost even faster by the process of forced convection or what we refer to as the “wind-chill” factor. Add in rain and it will feel even colder. Even in Winter we gain heat some heat from the sun. This is easy to feel on a Winters day when then sun goes behind clouds. So the coldest condition are low air temperature, strong winds and rain.
-Size
Its easy to lose heat if you are small and hard to lose heat if you are big. Large animals usually have the advantage in cold climates whilst small animals are better off in hot climates. As we have already said, the horse is unusual in that it can survive and even thrive in extremes of climate. And some breeds cope better with cold than others, but in general larger horses retain heat better than smaller ones.
-Age
As with people, young and old horses and ponies are likely to cope less well with the cold. Young horses are smaller and often have less bodyfat and will lose heat more rapidly. Older horses have a reduced ability to control their body temperature, may have lower body fat, may have health problems, reduced digestive efficiency and be less active which can all contribute to them being more at risk in cold weather.
-Condition/Bodyfat
A horse with a high BCS (body condition score) and a large amount of fat will be better insulated and need less rugging.
-Diet
Heat production is greater on high fibre diets compared with high starch and or high oil based diets. Horses and ponies living out in very cold climates such as in Canada in Winter are able to maintain body condition if they have unlimited access to good quality forage. Increased addition of energy to the diet should only really be necessary when the average temperature drops below 0°C for several weeks or for young horses and ponies or for older horses or ponies or those in poor condition.
-Breed
The “rounder” or more “compact” shape of some breeds may help them to retain heat in cold weather, for example cobs would have an advantage over “finer” breeds such as Arabs.
-Coat
The horses coat keeps it warm by trapping air between the hairs. When the coat gets wet the hairs collapse and less air is trapped leading to faster heat loss. Clearly whether or not a horse has a thick winter coat, has not yet grown one or has been clipped will have a big effect on the ability to retain heat. We have always considered that changes from Summer to Winter coat occur as a result of both daylength and temperature. A recent study in Poland found evidence that air temperature rather than daylight appeared to have the strongest influence on development of Winter coat.
-Shelter
Again, studies have shown that even in severely cold weather, provided shelter and good quality unlimited forage are provided, mature horses in good condition can maintain their body condition. One interesting consideration with respect to shelter and stables is that stone shelters or stables will “draw” heat from horses by a process known as radiation so whilst a horse may not need a rug in a wooden stable the radiant heat loss in a stone stable may mean that the same horse would benefit from a rug. This is not any easy concept but in the same way that the Sun radiates heat to us on Earth, in the stable the horse becomes the equivalent of the Sun and radiates (loses) heat to colder surfaces.
-Individual Variation
Just like ourselves, some horse cope better with cold than others. So whilst there are general rules, its still important to observe the individual horse. The LCT (Lower Critical Temperature) does vary both within and between breeds e.g. 1.4˚C to 10.8°C for ponies; –2.1˚C to 7.9°C for Thoroughbreds; –3.4˚C to 7.4°C for Warmbloods.

* Why do we use rugs?
There are several main reasons why we use rugs on our horses at this time of year: to keep them warm; to keep them dry; to keep them clean. If they get wet they lose more heat. If we keep them rugged we can clip them which reduces the risk of over-heating during training or competition and makes them easier to clean off.

* How does the horse lose heat from its body?
1) Heat lost in breath
2) Heat lost in faeces and urine
3) Heat lost from the skin/coat surface
4) Heat lost by contact with colder surfaces, such as the ground
5) Heat lost by radiation to colder surfaces
6) Heat lost by sweating

* Is how warm or cold we feel a good guide to whether we should rug our horses?
No, we lose heat more rapidly than horses. We will feel cold when horses still feel comfortable. Our thermo neutral zone (when naked) is 25-30°C – much higher and much narrower than that of the horse (0-25°C).

* Risks of rugging or over-rugging?
1) Rubbing, especially if causing horse to sweat. Sweating causes the skin to become hyper-hydrated (the effect you get when you stay in the bath too long) and more prone to damage and infection.
2) Rugs and stabling prevent sunlight reaching the skin which is necessary for generation of Vitamin D. Vitamin D is involved in the regulation of calcium and phosphorus in bone and deficiency can lead to decreased bone strength. Sufficient sunlight penetrates through the coat and a thin rug (Azarpeykan et al. 2016; Domestic Animal Endocrinology, Volume 56, July 2016, Pages 75-84) to generate Vitamin D but may not through multiple thick Winter rugs.
3) The horse uses a considerable amount of energy to keep warm. If the horse is too heavily rugged then less energy is lost and will be deposited as fat leading to weight gain. Conversely, horses with short coats and little body fat on borderline energy intake will lose weight in colder weather.

* What thickness of rug should I use?
A horses Winter coat when dry and clean has been estimated to have a Tog rating of around 1-2. So if we consider that a Summer duvet has a Tog rating of 4.5 then this would already be increasing the insulation of the horse by a factor of 2-3 times. Some really thick rugs may well approach a Tog rating of 15 which would only likely be needed by sick newborn foals or very thin old horses in extremely cold weather!

* How to decide when to rug
-Don’t rug horses based on how cold you feel!
-Older horses, young horses, thin horses and clipped horses will need rugs first
-For most horses (unless clipped and living out 24/7) rugs should not be considered before temperatures overnight begin dipping towards 5°C.
-Ideally start with lighter rugs and move to thicker rugs as it gets colder.
-After a month of cold weather your horse may be able to swap back to a thinner rug once its acclimatised
-Try to avoid having rugs on all day when turned out to allow for maximal Vitamin D formation – an hour a day exposure without a rug should be sufficient.
-Feeling your horses’ legs, face or ears is a poor indicator of how warm it is. Placing your hand under the rug behind the withers is a good spot. If it feels cold then you may want to consider a thicker rug. If it feels damp then you may want to consider removing the rug as its likely your horse is too warm.
-Horses without access to field shelters will need thicker rugs as the temperature drops.
-Remember that wind and cold and rain will induce the greatest heat loss.

What a strange year this has been so far! I hope everyone is well and managing to enjoy their horses even with everythin...
12/10/2020

What a strange year this has been so far! I hope everyone is well and managing to enjoy their horses even with everything that has been going on in the world.

With winters insidious approach a lot of horses will now be starting to come in at night. Standing in overnight can exacerbate arthritic joints as can the colder weather. If your horse is showing signs of stiffness and pain or behavioural changes, a physio appointment can really help. Massage, mobilisations and electrotherapies can help to relieve compensatory muscle soreness and pain whilst exercises can be given to improve range of motion and movement patterns.



Please contact me in order to book an appointment.



A short note on behavioural changes at this time of year.

A lot of clients have noted their horses becoming overly ‘fresh’ and ‘naughty’ with the cooler weather and darker nights.
Whilst it is always important to look into the cause of any behavioural changes there is also a high likelihood that the behaviour is in response to the following:



Overnight stabling – Whilst some horses are stabled all year round, a lot of horses will have been out 24-7 until this month. Your horse has gone from being out, moving about, grazing in the field most of the day, to standing still for hours. Imagine how much energy he is saving up. In fact, think how you felt being allowed out for only an hour of exercise per day over the lockdown .. if you’re anything like me you probably went a little stir crazy. It’s easy to imagine why a stable horse may have far too much energy!

Cooler weather – The temperature has dropped all of a sudden and it is generally windier and wetter. Just like us, when chilly a horse will move around to keep warm. (For instance this morning was pretty chilly and I was jumping up and down flapping my arms like a demented chicken to get warm!). Whilst most horses are certainly not worried by the current temperature, the changing weather still has to be acclimatised to. Don’t expect a cold horse to stand perfectly. Get them moving to warm up.

The darker evenings and mornings – This one relates more to us than the horse … quite often, as the lovely sunny days fade into a distant memory and the rain sets in, us riders decide we are not quite so keen to work our horses. Your horse goes from being worked numerous days every week to possibly being ridden a couple of times on the weekend.. if its not too windy/ rainy/ cold (delete as applicable). This could be because it’s just too dark to ride after work but either way, a fairly fit horse can suddenly find himself with far too much energy and, if stabled, standing in for hours with very little to do.


The above are your main reasons but you could also add that we tend to provide more energy rich hard feed and a lot will be clipped out…well, you can really see a theme here!



So what’s the answer ?

Ensure your horse is getting enough exercise!

If stabled for long periods ensure that he is worked regularly to keep on top of the excess energy. If this means getting a sharer, asking work if you can move your hours round, paying your instructor to ride, or even just buying some lights for an area where you could at least lunge, then so be it.
An exercised horse is a better behaved, happier and healthier and certainly much more fun to handle and ride..

In cooler weather just get on and get him moving! The quicker he warms up the quicker he will settle. Use an exercise sheet to keep him warm if required and don’t clip unless it is necessary - an under exercised, clipped horse will certainly be fun on a cold and frosty morning!


In the end if you want a happy horse they really do need to expend energy.

Remember so called ‘naughty’ behaviour is usually a response to one of 3 things; Fear, Pain or Frustration. Your job is to work out what the cause is.
In the under exercised horse, the horse is behaving badly out of frustration i.e. too much energy and no outlet. Movement and regular exercise is the key to reducing unwanted behaviours in this instance.

If your horse has appropriate turn out, exercise and feed and you are still experiencing behavioural changes then please do get in contact.

Good evening everyone. I hope you and your horses are all doing ok in these strange times.  I have kept busy backing my ...
03/06/2020

Good evening everyone. I hope you and your horses are all doing ok in these strange times. I have kept busy backing my youngster over the last few weeks but am certainly ready to get back out treating horses.

I am now starting to book in appointments for the coming months. I have contacted those on the waiting list but if I have missed you please pop me a message on Fb or text and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

I will be observing social distancing, using antibacterial hand sanitiser, washing hands and changing clothing between yards.

Look forward to catching up with you all soon.

12/01/2020

The number of horses affected has now risen to 4.

As I'm sure most if you are aware there has been an outbreak of equine herpes. This is a devastating virus which has res...
12/01/2020

As I'm sure most if you are aware there has been an outbreak of equine herpes. This is a devastating virus which has resulted in 3 horses being put down so far. My personal opinion would be to stop hacking and competing etc for 2 weeks whilst they try to stop any further spread. The virus has a 14 day incubation period so if we all lockdown now the likelihood of it spreading any more would be very low. Even if you have not attended any shows at the affected yard remember that it's possible the rider just passing your yard did, or that one of the people on their yard did. Keep an eye on your horses for any symptoms and follow strict bio security measures if travelling between yards. Crossed fingers this will all be over in a few weeks.

The competition centre and livery yard is on complete lockdown and all shows are cancelled until further notice

Merry Christmas to all my friends and clients. A big thank you to all my clients for being so understanding during the l...
21/12/2019

Merry Christmas to all my friends and clients.

A big thank you to all my clients for being so understanding during the last few months. As most of you know I had to have an operation following problems with my gallbladder. I am currently a few weeks from my OP and finally beginning to feel a bit normal. I hope to reopen my diary in February allowing time to heal and regain strength. I hope to see you all again then but in the meantime happy Christmas and happy new year to you all xx

One of my very lovely clients, Magic. Otherwise known as the BFG. Such a lovely boy. Having a lovely stretch or hug ;0) ...
16/06/2019

One of my very lovely clients, Magic. Otherwise known as the BFG. Such a lovely boy. Having a lovely stretch or hug ;0) he was practically asleep through most of his visit. Very chilled. Thank you Lucy for these photos.

Evening everyone.. slightly tongue in cheek but hopefully this will make sense to those of you deciding whether to back ...
23/05/2019

Evening everyone.. slightly tongue in cheek but hopefully this will make sense to those of you deciding whether to back your youngsters this year.

So it’s coming into summer and for those of us with youngsters the question on everyone’s lips is “when are you going to back him/ her”..
as the owner of a 3 yr old ish filly this is a question i have been fielding for some months ( even though she only turned 3 yesterday...).

For me the answer is not until at least next year. Why? Well there are a number of reasons and here they are:

1) My youngster has literally just turned 3. Now for some reason us humans have decided this is the ideal time for backing however my youngsters body is still a long way from maturity. I intend to keep her for the rest of her life and hope to be riding her well in to her dotage so taking a few years for her skeleton to mature is no hardship.

"Timing & Rate of Skeletal Maturation in Horses" by Dr. Deb Bennett, Ph.D
The full article has much more information, but here's a taste of her message:

"Owners and trainers need to realize there's a definite, easy-to-remember schedule of bone fusion. Make a decision when to ride the horse based on that rather than on the external appearance of the horse.. For there are some breeds of horse--the Quarter Horse is the premier among these--which have been bred in such a manner as to LOOK mature LONG before they actually ARE. This puts these horses in jeopardy from people who are either ignorant of the closure schedule, or more interested in their own schedule (racing, jumping, futurities or other competitions) than they are in the welfare of the animal.

The Schedule of Growth-Plate Conversion to Bone

The process of fusion goes from the bottom up. In other words, the lower down toward the hooves, the earlier the growth plates will fuse--the higher up toward the animal's back you look, the later. The growth plate at the top of the coffin bone, in the hoof, is fused at birth. What this means is that the coffin bones get no TALLER after birth (they get much larger around, though, by another mechanism). That's the first one. In order after that:

Short pastern – bottom before birth; top between 9-12 months.
Long pastern – bottom unites with shaft at or shortly before birth; top 13 to 15 mos.
Cannon bone – top unites with shaft at or shortly before birth; bottom unites with shaft at about 18 mos.
Small bones of the knee – top and bottom of each, between 18 mos. and 2 years
Radius-ulna – upper weightbearing surface, between 15-18 mos.; distal surfaces, between 3 and 3.5 years
Humerus – bottom, between 1.5 and 2 years; top, between 3 and 3.5 years
Scapula – glenoid or bottom (weight-bearing) portion – between 3 and 3.5 years
Hindlimb – cannon bone, coffin bone, andpasterns same as forelimb
Hock – this joint is “late” for as low down asit is; growth plates on the tibial and fibulartarsals don’t fuse until the animal is 3-3.5(so the hocks are a known “weak point” –even the 18th-century literature warns against driving young horses in plow or other deep or sticky footing, or jumping them up into a heavy load, for danger of spraining their hocks).
Tibia – bottom, between 20 mos. and 2years; top, between 3 and 3.5 years
Femur – there are 4 major epiphyses on this bone, including the head that goes into the hip socket; they fuse between 3 - 4 years.
Pelvis – the hip socket is firm between 18mos. and 2 years, but the rest of the bone does not stop growing until the horse is 5 or more years old.

And what do you think is last? The vertebral column (spine) of course. A normal horse has 32 vertebrae between the back of the skull and the root of the dock, and there are several growth plates on each one, the most important of which is the one capping the centrum.

These do not finally fuse until the horse is at least 5 ½ years old (and this figure applies to a small-sized, scrubby, range-raised mare. The taller your horse and the longer its neck, the later the last fusions will occur. And for a male – is this a surprise? – you add six months. So, for example, a 17-hand Thoroughbred, Saddlebred or Warmblood gelding may not be fully mature until his 8th year – something that owners of such individuals have often told me that they “suspected”)

Significance of the Closure Schedule for Injuries to Back and Neck vs. Limbs

"The lateness of vertebral "closure" is most significant for two reasons. One: in no limb are there 32 growth plates! Two: The growth plates in the limbs are (more or less) oriented perpendicular (up and down) to the stress of the load passing through them, while those of the vertebral chain are oriented parallel (horizontal) to weight placed upon the horse's back. Bottom line: you can sprain a horse's back (i.e., displace the vertebral growth plates) a lot more easily than you can sprain those located in the limbs.

And here's another little fact: within the chain of vertebrae, the last to fully "close" are those at the base of the animal's neck--that's why the long-necked individual may go past 6 yrs. to achieve full maturity. So you also have to be careful--very careful--not to yank the neck around on your young horse, or get him in any situation where he strains his neck (i.e., better learn how to get a horse broke to tiebefore you ever tie him up, so that there will be no likelihood of him ever pulling back hard)."....

~ Dr. Deb Bennett, Ph.D. is a 1984 graduate of the University of Kansas, and until 1992 was with the Smithsonian Institute. She is internationally known for her scientific conformation analysis. http://sunsetacresspokane.weebly.com/sunsets-blog/equine-growth-plate

2) my youngster is just not mentally ready for ridden work. I need to spend more time walking out and doing ground work before I expect her to deal with a rider and the rest of the world.

3) my bottom is too large! Now that sounds like a joke but I like to be the first person to sit on any of my own youngsters. After all they trust me and I understand them so it makes life easy if I am their first rider. At the moment my argument with my weight and love of food means that I am larger than I want to be. A heavy rider starting a young horse is not fair because of the strain on the horses back muscles and not being used to carrying weight so until I lose some weight I cannot subject my youngster to my rather large bottom!

If you are unsure whether you should be backing your youngster yet or not then you probably have your answer. Do not think you must back at 3 because everyone else does. Only back when you are ready, your youngster is mature enough and your bottom ( or the chosen riders bottom) is small enough!

Ps in all honesty a very light weight rider sitting on a youngster for a few minutes is not going to cause an issue but if you intend keeping your horse strong and healthy for many years then holding off till they are mature enough for ridden work makes sense!

05/04/2019

Hello everyone

Well it’s that time of year again...spring! I tend to be pretty busy this time of year as we get ready for summer competitions. If you would like to book an appointment this month please contact me ASAP as available spots are limited.

On that note, a lot of bookings this time of year are due to horses behaviour becoming rather challenging as we come into spring. A spring Mot is definitely a good idea however, a lot of this behaviour is natural and not due to injury or pain.

All horses get extra energy as we come into spring. The extra sugar in the grass and extra daylight leads to an excess of energy.
This can lead to your horse being rather over reactive, spooky, strong and full of beans! This isn’t unusual behaviour. It is perfectly normal. When this happens, and especially if you are experiencing behaviours that knock your confidence and could be dangerous, it is important to reassess how you work your horse.

Lunging can be really beneficial to drain some energy before riding( by lunging I do not mean small circles for 20 minutes- this is bad for your horses joints and too much for a horse who is not very fit. I mean 5 minutes each side using the whole of the school. You should be moving almost as much as the horse. If you’re not a bit breathless after lunging like this then you’re either very fit or not moving enough!).

If schooling pop some poles down. Doing pole work will tire your horse, make him think and be of great benefit to building muscle. Again this is tiring so not too much at first!

If hacking, warm up and then pop in to trot. Trot uses more energy than walk, is harder to have a buck than in canter, and is easier to control if they spook. Keep your horse thinking.. ask him to lengthen or shorten the stride, use the trees as bending poles ( if safe to so do), ask for leg yield. The excess energy will pass so don’t panic!

Remember to keep an eye out for laminitis especially if your horse is coming into spring with excess weight. Prevention is the key.

Mares cycles begin again In Spring ( although some mares do still have seasons over winter). They become rather touchy and the “don’t touch me” or, as I like to call it, “I kill you”face becomes common place.
This isn’t unusual and is most often caused by sensitivity over the flanks and ovulation pain. This can also lead to nipping, bucking under saddle and when legs are applied. Mares cycles are shorter than women’s and they tend to come in season every 18 to 23 days with a season( ie winking etc) for approx 5 days. I find most mares are more sensitive on the days running up to their season and the 1st few days of her season.Keeping a note of your mares season can be really useful and help you identify unusual behaviour indicating issues unrelated to her season.

Finally..get your saddle checked as you up the workload. Your horses shape is likely to have changed over winter.

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Aldershot

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