The PewterScribe

18/02/2026

On Sunday (15/02), I announced the Survival Horror Game Inventory System which I have been working on. On Monday (16/02) I updated the System and Submitted the update to Epic to be applied to the system. Thankfully this update was approved and the update is now live on the Fab Marketplace.
This new update adds in a Drag & Drop inventory mechanic which only works for the Player Inventory and not on Storage Units like Lootable Items or the Player Storage. While a simple addition compared to what was already in the pack this proved to be troublesome to make work and not break in real-time. I'm almost certain there is still 1 or 2 things that could be done to improve the Drag and Drop mechanic like taking out the ability to drag outside of the Player Inventory for example, of if you do it drops the Item in the game world, but these little things where outside of the scope of what I wanted. Besides for the end goal of what I want the system to do, I don't intend this Drag and Drop inventory to be utilized, at least at the stage I am at right now.
Below is an image showing the system, it shows that when you drag something around in the inventory, you will see that the desired location box is highlighted and a ghost image of the item you are dragging is shown. This is so you know what you are moving around and where you are moving it to. When you do this into a Storage Unit, the Box is highlighted like it does in the Inventory, but it wont be dropped into the Storage Unit.

31/01/2026

Another of the badges on the mould we made recently is the Roaring Lion badge. Hand carved like the Bat in 2mm thick brass and them moulded in rubber. If you look on the photos of the mould in the Bat posts you will see its on the same mould.
The Roaring Lion can be viewed on our webshop here https://thepewterscribe.sumupstore.com/product/pin-badge-roaring-lion-pewter

21/01/2026

50 years ago today, Concorde redefined speed with supersonic travel. We’ve spent over 40 years doing the opposite – taking the time needed to craft pieces like this hand-embossed leather belt, where every detail is shaped with care rather than haste, the tool to emboss this design was hand engraved in brass.

While Concorde crossed oceans in hours, PewterScribe builds items meant to last lifetimes. Precision, not pace – that’s our flight plan.

🔗 www.ThePewterScribe.co.uk

19/01/2026

I know a lot of you have been following my posts about carving a bat and making it into a pin badge. That's not quite the whole story though, to be able to cast the bat badge I need several other pieces as using a 9" rubber mould will actually take 6 - 8 badge masters and I don't really want to waste the rest of the material, as it can't be re-used after vulcanising, this helps keep the cost of the pieces down. Just after I carved the bat I carved an Eagle Head, which went in the mould as well and I carved a Snarling wolf a few months ago and we had him contract cast in bronze, so I thought it may be nice to offer him in pewter as well. There were a couple of other badges that I'll possibly talk about in a later post. The Eagle Head pin badge, the bat and Snarling Wolf are available exclusively from our web shop www.thepewterscribe.co.uk , or from our studio in Long Eaton or if you see us at an event.

18/01/2026

Finishing the Bat pin badge part 2.
The next step is to carefully cut a track for the molten metal to flow into the mould, and if you look closely you can a smaller track cut into the rubber from the bats wing to the edge of the rubber, this is the air release, without this the metal can't move through the mould. Once the mould is cut I did a trial cast, we got the bat out on the second attempt but unfortunately he had a fault on his wing where the pin came through from the back of the casting. This is something that is very much trial and error. I made an adjustment to the depth of the pins and recast. I load 2 pins in the mould prior to casting and when the metal is poured in it surrounds the head of the pins. Once the badge has cooled down from casting I fettle it to remove any sharp edges and then seal the back with a spray lacquer. When the lacquer has dried I then dip the badge in an acid called Ferric Chloride (at this point I use rubber gloves) this turns the pewter to an antique finish, if I hadn't lacquered the back, the acid would attack the pins. I then rinsed the acid off the piece and carefully dried it. Using a fine scotchbrite wheel I then carefully polish the high areas of the casting to give a contrast, notice that my thumb is wrapped in tape to protect me from the polishing wheel. I then give the front a coat of lacquer and fit the clips to the back. The finished badge in pewter is just over 1.5 " (40mm) across and weighs 0.25oz (7 grams) .

17/01/2026

We are looking forward to this great little festival

17/01/2026

Finishing the Bat pin badge part 1.
With the little bat now carved in brass, I needed to add pins to the reverse side to allow it to be worn as a badge. I removed it from the piece of brass I carved it on and then removed the remains of the hot glue. I then very carefully, using my 2mm ball cutter cut two shallow domed hollows inward on the back, these are he locations for the pins. I change to my 0.3mm carbide tool and add my piece reference number (CST2602), copyright symbol and the year I made it. I then bond 2 x 7mm pins using Araldite type metal, I used to solder these in but during the vulcanising process the solder melts, this makes it difficult to remove the pins afterwards. Yhe master for the badge this is then placed with 5 others in a mould frame, in the bottom of the frame is a 9" ( 225mm approx) diameter round piece of rubber. The six pieces (Masters) are positioned on the rubber in a position I think will be best for me to cut metal and air flow paths later. As I position pieces in the mould alll of the parts, masters, Rubber. Locators and frame are dusted liberally with French chalk which acts as a release agent. I then place 5 locator nuts in positions around the edge of the mould, I find that if I place 3 nuts on one side of the mould a 2 close together on the other side the mould locates really easily. I then place another piece of rubber on top and the mould is closed by placing the top plate on. The finished mould frame is then vulcanised at 180degrees centigrade for 2 hours, while the rubber is heated it is also pressured to about 8 tons, which as the temperature builds will increase to about 10 tons. Prior to vulcsnising he moulding rubber is very malleable, one of the things that happens during the process is the rubber is hardened and able to accuratly reproduce fine detail. Once the mould has cooled, we carefully split it out of the frame and check the results. The next picture shows our bat mould with the metal and air flow lines marked on ready to cut.

18/12/2025

As the festive season approaches, all of us at The PewterScribe would like to thank you for your continued support throughout the year.

We wish all our wonderful customers a very Happy Christmas and a peaceful, prosperous New Year.

✨ Last orders: 22nd December
🎄 We will be closed from: 23rd December – 5th January

We look forward to welcoming you again in the New Year.

05/12/2025

New item just posted in the webshop. https://thepewterscribe.sumupstore.com/product/I-am-a-cider-drinker-hand-made-belt-buckle.

A hand made buckle in Brass or Stainless steell with an coloured enamel front plate "I am a Cider Drinker". The buckle is made to fit a 1.5 (38mm) belt, which can be purchased separately

01/12/2025

The Lipizzan Celtic Style Handbag

£140.00

This Beautiful
Traditionally made Saddle style handbag is fully handmade, from the cutting of the individual pieces to the final stitch. The exquisite hand carving is the perfect example of this traditional skill, taking our Craftsman in excess of 6 hours to complete. The process requires an ability to focus on a small area for long periods. While this saddle bag is one of the standard pieces we make, we happy to discuss the same style handbag with a your bespoke design. Natural water based stains are used to achieve the colour and the piece is finished with beeswax. The saddle bag is approximately 7" (17.5cm) across and 6" (15cm) high, the depth is 2.5" (6.2cm), and the strap is 50" (125cm) long with 6" (15cm) of adjustment, so suitable to be worn across the body. The closing mechanism is a "tenax" fitting, which is normally found on high end sports cars.

29/11/2025

This pin badge has been around for a while but remains popular, here you can see it cast in two different metals, one is pewter, and 1 is bronze. We have also upon request made it in silver.

23/11/2025

Wow was this really 9 years ago? The best workshop we have ever had convenient with plenty of space, we would still be there if it had not been for the environment agency compulsory purchasing the building as part of the flood defence schem.

OMG what a morning just had a phone call from the landlord at the workshop to tell us that the entire complex has been broken into! on our way to see what the what the damage is.