16/02/2024
Travelogue Safari/Retreat 2024:
The Pioneer Ladies had already met several times in Market Drayton before the trip and had connected with Heidi on WhatsApp. They ātrained itā together to Heathrow, making for an excited bonded bunch. We all met up in the airport, and flew into Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, nearly 9 hours later, a bit worse for wear but definitely buzzing. It was 5 am local time and dawn was breaking. John the Driver met us with a āYoga Safariā sign, loaded up his 20-seater bus, and sped off towards Athi River and the Swara Acacia Camp. Lots of unusual, if not downright crazy, sights, both on and off the main Mombasa roadā¦.and what a mushrooming of development and population on the outskirts of Nairobi, even after just 4 years.
It was clear there had been a lot of unseasonal rain. Usually in January itās hot and dusty so I was a little concerned that it might not be easy to see game. (When itās dry, the animals all head for the waterholes!) But as soon as we drove onto the Hopcraft Ranch, we sighted ostrich, giraffe, guinea fowl, vultures, and a male olive baboon. In fact I neednāt have worried at all.
Swara Acacia Camp has also evolved in the meantime. From a no-frills camp into lovely comfortable mid-range accommodation. We took this first day to acclimatise and rest up. In the late afternoon, Kennedy, a Samburu staff member, took us on a lovely walk in the bush. Giraffe, vervet monkeys, hornbills and Superb starlings abounded. We also caught sight of a tawny eagle. The camp was comfortable and the food plentiful and tastyā¦ā¦ and the boutique, well-patronised (by us!)
First thing after breakfast on Day 2 we met Henry our Safari Guide. Immediately warm, gentlemanly and clearly knowledgeable, he ushered us into our safari vehicle ā where weād be spending most of the next 3 days - and set off towards Amboseli National Park. This is the park with the classic view of Mount Kilimanjaro ā on a clear day! The drive was mostly on tarmacked roads and, after a pitstop and some hours, we reached Kibo Camp. Although quite a big camp, hosting a good many tourists, we found the staff very warm and welcoming and the food and facilities top-notch. And at dinner, all of a sudden, out came the kitchen and waiting-on staff, singing and dancing, to celebrate a guestās birthday! Some of our party even joined in the fun!
Our first game drive was an absolute joy! We had unexpectedly good weather, although it didnāt quite stretch to a clear mountain peak. We saw giraffe, zebra, yellow-billed stork, warthog, impala, yellow baboon, Thomsonās gazelle, wildebeest (gnus), crested cranes, buffalo, a lone spotted hyena, and two male lions, reclining together. We also had the enormous pleasure of watching a small herd of elephant leisurely crossing the road right in front of our vehicle, including really tiny onesā¦.
We woke early for a game drive the next morning and saw even more. The mountain did allow us a sneak āpeakā ā we could just make out the snow on the summit ā but that was it! We were very happy, however, and could add the following to our growing list: crested cranes dancing their mating ritual, another spotted hyena, Grantās gazelles, saddle-billed stork, helmeted guinea fowl, a long-crested eagle and many sightings of the beautiful lilac-breasted roller.
We reluctantly left Kibo Camp behind, and drove off back to the main road. Driving through baobab country, past Kibwezi and the Sikh Temple at Makindu, our final stop was Tsavo Inn, a halfway house and simple hostelry, built in the settlersā era, and charmingly āolde worldeā. Mtito Andei is halfway down the Mombasa road and lots of truckers break their journey here. We could hear the revellers throughout the night! (Note to self ā not again!) But we did enjoy the hospitality of Samson our host, the food, and, despite the drizzle, even the pool!
Next morning we left early with pack-lunches. After an hour on the main road - with the Yatta Plateau, at 300 km the longest lava flow in the world, on our left - we reached Tsavo East National Park (which is actually the size of Israel). The weather had changed by now and we were in bright sunshine so everyone donned hats or slapped on the sunscreen. Henry drove us south until we reached Mudanda Rock, a 1.6 km long inselberg of stratified rock, which acts as a water catchment supplying a natural dam below. There were steps etched into the rock to enable us to climb it, and once on top with the 380 degree vista, we all felt the beautiful energy. Some of us even lay down to feel it more intensely. From our vantage point we homed in on a small herd of zebra near the dam below, and a family of waterbuck, male, female and fawn, at the waterās edge. It was a moving sight. As was the appearance of a lone bull elephant on the other side of the rock, easily distinguishable by his coat of red Tsavo soil, as he made his way slowly by, browsing the ample vegetation.
Next stop: Lugards Falls, on the Galana River. Itās a wonderful landscape of water-sculpted channels with white water rapids and striated rocks, particularly wild after the excessive rain upcountry which had turned the white rapids brown with all the sediment. Very dramatic and powerful, and mighty loud! We moved on and ate our lunches in a quieter āluggerā - a dry seasonal water course - surrounded by doum palms, insect sounds and birdsong.
On our way through Tsavo to our next overnight, we spotted a leopard! To be exact, Julie Jordan spotted the leopard and miraculously we all saw it before it disappeared into the bush. Something people can go 20 years and never see! So blessed ā and despite the long grass! We also sighted several single dik dik, a number of gerenuk, banded mongoose and buffalo weavers, as well as - what now were the āusualā - warthog, wildebeest, zebra, impala, baboon and buffalo.
After a night in not such a great lodge (another note to self) ā one we also shared with a few trillion insects - we took off on the last leg of our safari along the Galana River towards the parkās eastern border at Sala Gate. On this game drive we had plenty of time to marvel at the beauty of the Galana with its dramatic backdrop, the Yatta Plateau. The river is characteristically lined by the beautiful doum palm, also running up and down the myriad āluggersā which regularly bisected our route. At one such lugger, we caught sight of a terrapin, sitting motionless on a rock. Then someone saw the five hippos in a pool beyond him! What a find!
Just outside the park, we stopped for lunch at Galana Crocodile Camp and were immediately treated to a crocodile-feeding frenzy! The Maasai staff there bait the crocs with raw chicken, literally calling them out of the river and up onto the bank. There were three or four, including one huge old-timer, all vying for the free food! A great photo op but it did feel a bit like cheating!
The last leg of the journey was a run to the coast on a newly tarmacked and almost empty road. Here we were treated to quite startling but often highly amusing scenarios, at least to our unaccustomed western eyes! For example, a chap sitting atop 4 charcoal sacks, loaded onto a motorbike! Four-, or even five-up, on a āpiki-pikiā was also not uncommon!
We finally arrived just after 4 pm at Watamu Treehouse to begin the second part of our Kenya Odyssey, the Yoga Retreat, and were met with wide smiles and unfamiliar, but delicious, refreshments before being taken to our spectacular rooms. The rest of the evening was just an exploration of our new home, the beach and coastal forest, and the joy of actually unpacking!!! Not to mention our first taste of the wonderful Treehouse cuisine!
Already on safari thereād been talk of the first thing scheduled in Watamu ā the Mida Creek Float. The following morning was the only chance weād have on this trip to experience it, due to the tides. With one of our company not happy out of her depth, it looked like sheād be missing it. Another had, for some reason, been strongly advised against it. However, by the time it came to the crunch, everyone was on board! So on Monday morning, and after a drink and a bite, we headed off on foot through the hinterland towards the mangrove forest and the creek.
On the way, Kingi and Baraka, our watersports coaches, stopped in turn at a baobab, a Neem tree and a coconut palm and told us all about their many properties and uses. At the mangroves, after a short briefing, we waded into the narrow channel. We entered, in line, now the tide was well on its way out and taking us along with it. We were directed under low-lying branches and over underwater roots until the channel began to widen and we knew we were getting closer to the creek itself. And in time we emerged into the wide open water, heading fast for the ocean. We could see by the rate we were passing moored boats just how fast we were travelling. Such a great feeling being carried along on your back, body motionless and peaceful, ears underwater as if in a giant flotation tank. At the mouth of the creek where it met the Indian Ocean we were ushered by Kingi and Baraka to swim hard to our left and climb onto the beach, where we were given towels and a wonderful breakfast!
From here we all walked together in bright sunshine along the white sand to the next part of our first morning. We waded ankle deep around the craggy coral until we reached a long sandbar where we lined up for some Partner Yoga. And on our way back up to the Treehouse we swung by the beach market. It is always fun to barter with the local businesswomen, who compete to sell us curios and fabrics.
After a late and luscious lunch we were free to roam, rest or enjoy a massage. At 5 we met on the roof for our first Yin Yoga session which ended at dusk. The Top Yoga Room affords a perfect view to the west and allows us to bask in the beautiful colours of the sunset, enjoying fresh juice and snacks.
Every night at Treehouse we were treated to a different dining space, in which to enjoy the spectacular offerings of the Treehouse kitchen. Kingi (same name, different man) has been working for Paul since before I entered his life or had Aja. In the meantime, heās become a brilliant chef and part of the family.
The theme of this yearās retreat was Peace Begins with Me. The Retreat would provide many opportunities to find and experience inner peace and just to be with the silence of the natural world. Earlier on safari, in silence, we allowed ourselves to experience the presence of great mammals. At the coast, the presence, for example, of the great Baobab tree. During our stay in Watamu we would go on to explore the peace of daily meditation and Yin Yoga, the physical peace of relaxing massage, the awesome silence of the underwater world, the sacred resonances of a sound bath, and the powerful peace of the rising and setting sun.
And over the next three days we observed verbal silence until breakfast time. Rising with the sun, we meditated with Aja on the New Tower roof, and followed that with a Yoga practice either on the roof or in the forest below.
Apart from our Yoga sessions we had ample free time to swim and sunbathe. Some of us unfortunately got more than we bargained for in the suntan department, but nothing too debilitating!
One of our expeditions was riding into Watamu village ā3-upā in the back of tuk-tuks, to do the inevitable shopping. Another was snorkelling in the Marine Park. Despite the lack of experience - in some cases complete - another huge act of self-overcoming was embraced by some, as we all clambered aboard a double-storey marine park boat headed for the Reserve. We timed it perfectly to reach the park at low tide when the coral heads would be closest to the surface. And we were the only people out there! I personally had never seen the reef so richly diverse and colourful! So many fish, species Iād never seen before, and anemones! It was a challenge to get some people back out of the water!
The next day we went once again to Mida Creek but this time on a dhow ā a traditional Arab sailing boat used in the region for both trading and fishing. It was so peaceful and felt so natural to be sailing with the wind. At one point we all sat a while in silent meditation, facing the setting sunā¦.
The next morning was our last in Watamu. We rose early as usual, but now, due to a favourable tide, we could do our walking meditation on a beautiful, empty beach - and get a swim in before breakfast. With bags packed and ready to go, we climbed the stairs for the last time for our Closing Ceremony. Then the Treehouse Tem came upstairs themselves to say goodbye!
I know from everyone involved that itās been a life-changing experience to come here to Kenya, just as it was for me. Iām looking forward to bringing more of you on this wonderful and unforgettable adventure, to experience the beauty and the open hearts, and other sides of yourself, in the wild silence of the African Bush.
