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Ocean Organics NZ

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Ocean Organics NZ

Family owned and operated, creating the rolls royce of liquid seaweed concentrates for soil and pla

Years ago, husband and wife, Jill Bradley and Keith Atwood went on a woofers holiday around organic farms of New Zealand. They discovered the true, rich tastes of organic fruit and veges and committed to growing organically for their family. Jill and Keith were educated on the inherent dangers of chemical cocktails applied to soil and plants. An organic farm in the Hawkes Bay impressed them with the health, abundance and lack of disease in the organics. The major inputs were seaweed and comfrey... So began a number of years of research. Keith experimented with brewing and Jill experimented with organic growing. Gardening friends soon began asking Jill and Keith to supply them. Ocean Organics was formed to provide organic alternatives for urban gardens. Our Philosophy -

-To produce 100% earth friendly products for the health of soil, plants & people
- To be engaged in the educative process of learning & teaching others about organic growing
- Ensure that organic products are available in a form that is convenient & easy to use
- To keep organic growing solutions cost effective compared with chemicals
- To encourage recycling of packaging
- We believe in the bio-dynamic principle of, NZ seaweed for NZ soil.

01/03/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR MARCH IN THE GARDEN...

Every single March I reflect on the summer that has been. So often they are wildly fluctuating and testing for growers, and this one has been no exception - especially for those of us in the Waikato (and the BOP, and the East Cape…). I’m feeling a little robbed, to be honest, so I’m making the most of the long daylight hours while we still have them and turning my focus to what I want to eat this winter.

The week after the full moon (Wednesday the 4th - a Blood Moon!) I’ll be sowing root crops: carrots, radish, beetroot, kohlrabi, parsnips and onions. I love my March-sown carrots - they’re the easiest to get established and they store beautifully in the garden. Be sure to keep the seed continually moist for the 2–3 weeks it takes to germinate (and keep it netted to protect it from the birds).

The few days leading up to the full moon, and a few days afterwards, are also ideal for liquid feeding - a great way to boost weary summer crops and get new seedlings off to a strong start. Diluted seaweed, worm juice, comfrey tea - whatever you have to hand. I make up a big backpack sprayer of Ocean Organics Seaweed Foliar Feed and spray the veggie garden as well as the orchard.

This month I’m also sowing onions, spring onions, bok choy, fennel, parsley, mizuna, rocket, coriander, spinach, lettuce, celery and, most importantly, my brassicas - broccoli, kale and cabbage. Planting brassicas every month from now through to May will ensure a steady stream of harvests. Brassicas will require netting to protect them from the nefarious cabbage white butterfly, who especially likes to lay its eggs on broccoli, kale and cabbage. The netting can be removed once the first frost hits.

Companion flowers like calendula, chamomile, larkspur, cornflower, snapdragons, nigella, bishop’s flower, poppies, borage, sweet peas and spring bulbs are all good to plant this month.

Autumn is the perfect time for dividing perennials and moving things around if you need to. And of course, it’s time to order bare-rooted fruit trees from nurseries, which will be delivered in June/July. Edible Garden Ltd is my go-to for excellent specimens. Plant rhubarb and asparagus crowns, and divide your strawberry plants by separating the runners from the main plant.

As space becomes available, give your soil a boost with cover crops like broad beans, buckwheat, lupins or mustard. Cover crops improve soil health by building organic matter, fixing nitrogen and reducing compaction. Allow 2–4 weeks for the cover crop to be broken down by the soil food web before you sow any edible crops.

The real key to healthy soil is avoiding bare patches. Even an old sack or carpet can help protect it and keep the soil biology thriving until you’re ready to replant. Enrich your soil with compost or well-rotted manure, and continue to mulch to prevent compaction from heavy rains.

Other odd jobs: lift kumara vines to prevent them from re-rooting and to keep their energy directed into tuber production. Pinch out the tips of pumpkins to stop further vine growth and help the fruit fatten up. In the orchard, prune your stone fruit as soon as fruiting is finished. Pip fruit can wait until later in winter, and it’s best to avoid pruning citrus at this time of year, as the native lemon tree borer can lay eggs in fresh cuts.

Garlic can be planted any time from now until around the shortest day of the year. In wet and humid climates like Waihi, it’s worth planting early to avoid rust. Plant in rich, well-composted soil with plenty of space between plants. Mulch heavily and apply liquid foliar feeds every two weeks during the first few months.

And finally, make compost with all the summer crops coming out of the garden. As the leaves start to fall, rake them up for your compost heap or store them for a year or more to make leaf mould - a super-nutritious, carbon-rich soil amendment.

My Moon Phases & Gardening Calendar is now on sale - only $20! Order online at vitalharvest.co.nz

Happy growing,
Nicki, Vital Harvest

14/02/2026

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01/02/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR FEBRUARY IN THE GARDEN;

It’s been a wild and frankly grim summer across much of the country. The most recent storm battered and bruised the Coromandel (where I am) and caused devastation throughout the Bay of Plenty and the East Cape. Our hearts are heavy following the tragic slips at Mount Maunganui.

These storms are no longer isolated events but part of a wider pattern of extreme weather. Moving forward, we need to shift from conversation to action, focusing on preparedness and resilience. Some of the most powerful responses can begin right at home - in our gardens, farms, and communities.

We can reduce the impact and build resilience in our landscapes with relatively simple strategies; keeping soil covered with plants, mulch, cover crops, and trees, which stabilises land, slows water movement, and locks carbon where it belongs. Breaking up hard surfaces allows water to soak in rather than rush away. Growing food locally reduces transport emissions and strengthens food security. Our backyard systems are often far more diverse and therefore resilient than large-scale monocultures. Working with nature, by designing to natural patterns rather than neat straight lines, creates stronger landscapes. Sharing skills, seeds, food, and support strengthens communities too. Ironically extreme weather events bring out the best in us collectively.

This challenging summer will no doubt impact many crops. My stone fruit is splitting before fully ripening, and my outdoor tomatoes are sulking - their support structure has even collapsed! I’m very thankful to have a backup crop in the greenhouse, which is doing well. Swings and roundabouts: the salads and leafy greens, at least, have loved the rain.

With a challenging summer behind us, it’s easy to start thinking ahead to winter. February is when I start sowing winter crops, especially my first round of brassicas ( broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and brussels sprouts). I plant a few each month from now through to May, to ensure a steady harvest all winter long. The white cabbage butterfly is still active, so netting is absolutely essential (check for eggs on the underside of leaves before planting and netting). A gentle forking (not turning), followed by a layer of compost and a sprinkle of organic full-spectrum fertiliser, such as Ocean Organics Soil+, is an excellent way to refresh tired soils.

The week after the full moon (which is on Tuesday the 2nd) is ideal for sowing root crops like carrots, parsnips, kohlrabi, daikon, radish, and beetroot. Otherwise, coriander, rocket, parsley, spring onions, leeks, dwarf beans, lettuce, bok choy, celery, fennel, spinach, silverbeet, and chard are all good to sow or plant this month. Flowers to plant now include anise hyssop, alyssum, borage, calendula, chamomile, cornflowers, dianthus, larkspur, nigella (love-in-a-mist), snapdragons and spring-flowering bulbs. Deadhead roses and perennials, prune and shape bay, lavender, and rosemary.

Pinch back overly tall tomato plants to encourage ripening, keep removing excess leaves for airflow, and continue liquid seaweed feeds. Watch for powdery mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, and pumpkins and remove affected leaves promptly.

As crops finish, cut them off at ground level and leave roots in the soil to decompose. Follow with quick-growing greens or sow cover crops such as lupin, buckwheat, phacelia, or broad beans to prepare beds for winter brassicas or garlic.

Now is also a great time to save seed from easy crops like lettuce, tomatoes, beans, and capsicum - just be sure they’re heirloom or open-pollinated varieties to ensure they grow "true to type".

Happy growing,
Nicki
Vital Harvest

31/12/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR JANUARY IN THE GARDEN

Happy New Year, gardeners and growers!
At the Summer Solstice, many of us were reveling in those long, hot December days - but over large parts of the country, things have taken a very blustery turn. My dahlias are down, the tomatoes are sulking, and the weeds seem to have grown inches overnight!

Times like these, I’m grateful for the infrastructure I’ve put in place - and quietly cursing the areas where I haven’t. I have been tying up tomato leaders both outside and in the tunnel house, where the wind seems to bellow straight through. Good airflow in the greenhouse is essential, especially with the humidity we’re experiencing, so I’ve been leaving the doors open. As things heat up again in January, I’ll cover the tunnel house with shade cloth to prevent it becoming intensely hot. On the next dry day, I’ll also remove more tomato laterals (the shoots that grow between the main stem and a leaf) to avoid overcrowding.

January is an abundant month in the garden, but the heat can be demanding and summer storms challenging. Keep plants thriving with regular seaweed liquid feeds and mindful watering practices. Aim for a deep soak every few days rather than a daily sprinkle. For established crops, check the soil with your finger and water only when it feels dry. Replenish soil with compost or well-rotted manure and top up the mulch.

I’ve harvested my Elephant garlic and am delighted with a rust-free crop, though I’ll be interested to see how it compares flavour-wise to my traditional varieties. When around half the foliage on onions, shallots, and garlic has browned, it’s time to harvest. If you’re storing crops, harvesting in the week after the full moon - when sap flow slows - is ideal. Set aside (or source, if you haven’t grown your own) garlic seed for the April/May planting window.

Things to sow and plant now include coriander and rocket (in the shade), chamomile, chives, parsley, radish, basil, dwarf beans, beetroot, celery, leeks, silverbeet, spinach, spring onions, and heat-tolerant lettuce varieties such as Drunken Woman, Little Gem, Buttercrunch, or Canasta. In warmer regions, you can still sneak in a few climbing beans, cucumbers, and zucchinis. Keep harvesting - regular picking encourages fresh growth.

Flowers to sow include alyssum, borage, calendula, cosmos, cornflower, marigold, lavender, sunflowers, and zinnia. Consider cover crops like lupins (excellent ahead of winter brassicas), buckwheat, and mustard - which is ideal for cleansing soil after potatoes, garlic, or tomatoes. Collect drying flower seed and make sure your dahlias and sunflowers are well staked for support.

Pest control is particularly important this month, as heat and poor airflow can quickly stress plants. Squish what you see on sight, hose off aphids, or add neem oil to your seaweed feed.

Soil and microorganisms alike need consistent moisture to stay active, so worm farms and compost heaps may need the occasional bucket of water. I move my worm farm into a shadier spot at this time of year.

As fruit ripens in the orchard, netting may be necessary to keep birds from beating you to the harvest. A little judicious thinning can encourage larger fruit and prevent bruising or the spread of disease. Once stone fruit has been harvested, trees can be pruned. Don’t forget to feed and mulch citrus.

My next Edible Gardening Workshop will be held on 21 February, at my home. Register your interest via vitalharvest.co.nz

Wishing you all a healthy and abundant 2026.
Nicki – Vital Harvest

01/12/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR DECEMBER IN THE GARDEN

Summer has officially arrived, and with it comes the busy rush of the festive season. It’s easy to let the garden slip down the priority list, but regular check-ins will pay dividends.

Most of your main summer crops should already be planted. Make sure taller crops are well supported - especially tomatoes. On a dry day, remove the laterals (the shoots that grow between the main stem and a leaf) to boost airflow and prevent overcrowding. Climbing beans will need a trellis or teepee to scramble up, while bush beans can be tucked into any spare pockets of space. Keep sowing a few every couple of weeks.

Zucchini, cucumbers, melons, sweetcorn, pumpkins and squash should all be in by now - keep them mulched and watered. Chillies, capsicum and eggplants can still go out in a sunny spot. In the orchard or food forest, you can plant rhubarb, grapes, passionfruit and tamarillo.

From here, it’s all about small, steady actions. Successive planting every 3-4 weeks keeps the harvests flowing: mizuna, rocket and coriander (in shady spots), Asian greens, basil, beans, lettuces, beetroot, parsley, spring onions, silverbeet, spinach, radishes, cucumbers and even another zucchini or two. There’s still time for strawberries, kūmara and potatoes.

For flowers, amaranth, bishop’s flower, poppies, nasturtiums, cosmos, sunflowers, echinacea, zinnias, calendula, marigolds, cornflowers and salvias, all boost pollination and add colour.

Mulching is essential - use close plantings, pea straw, seaweed, untreated sawdust or homemade mulch to conserve moisture, block weeds and protect soil life. Stressed plants (too dry or too wet) are more disease-prone, so use your finger as a moisture gauge and skip watering if the soil is still damp.

Watch for stink bugs, aphids and other pests - squish on sight. A three-weekly neem spray helps, but diversity and allowing some plants to flower and seed will bring beneficial insects (like ladybirds who can eat up to 50 aphids in a day!). Keep up the seaweed foliar sprays as a preventative measure

And finally - keep picking! Harvesting encourages fresh growth. Fossick for new potatoes, and check onions and garlic; when about half the leaves are brown, harvest time is close. Keep an eye on tomatoes, zucchini and beans; they’ll start appearing overnight before you know it!

My next Edible Gardening Workshop will be held on the 21st Feb.

Wishing you a safe, sunny and joyful festive season.
Nicki - Vital Harvest

01/11/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN

November has to be one of the best months in the garden - everything really starts to take off! Here in the Waikato, it’s prime time for summer planting - soils are warmer and night-time temperatures have stabilised. If you’re further south though, keep those frost cloths handy for a little while longer. Fingers crossed that was the last of the snowfall in the South!

I’ve been putting my recycling to good use, turning old soda bottles into mini cloches for early plantings of beans, zucchini and cucumbers. They stay cosy under cover at night, then get a sunshine fix during the day when I lift off the cloches. A client has also been keeping the wool insulation from her food box orders for me. I’ve been using these to not only protect tender young seedlings, but also as a slug and snail deterrent. The wool from shearing my sheep has been amazing around my winter brassicas for the same reason and will be used again to retain soil moisture around my tomatoes over summer.

Speaking of tomatoes - they’ve just gone in! I’m desperately hoping there won’t be any late frost surprises (Labour Weekend planting can still be precarious in my neck of the woods). They’ll get plenty of Ocean Organics NZ seaweed foliar feeding to help them settle in.

Next week it’s all go on the pumpkins (it’s root crop week according to the lunar calendar). Other root crops to sow and plant include spring onions, onions, beetroot, radish, parsnip, potatoes and kūmara. Carrots are best sown this month before it gets too hot. NB carrot seed needs to stay consistently moist for the 2–3 weeks it takes to germinate, and be protected from birds. Another good slug and snail deterrent is coffee grounds and crushed eggshells. However, my ultimate advice is to get out at night - just on dark with a head torch on - for some digital control. Or get ducks!

November is a brilliant time for sowing and planting lettuce and leafy greens- silverbeet, pak choy, spinach, cress, sorrel, fennel, celery, and herbs like rocket, coriander, mizuna, parsley, chervil, dill and chives. Sow or plant every 2–3 weeks for a steady supply. It’s also full steam ahead for planting out sweetcorn, chillies, capsicum, basil, cucumbers, pumpkins, melons and eggplants. If you’re growing brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbages), cover them with fine insect mesh - the cabbage white butterflies are already out and about!

I tend to go a little flower-crazy at this time of year - dahlias, zinnias, sweet peas, stock, poppies, nasturtiums, cosmos, sunflowers, echinacea, snapdragons, marigolds, calendula, cornflowers and salvia. I love the colour in the veggie patch, and they’ll keep the pollinators happy and your garden thriving.

Right now, my garden looks a little unruly - winter crops still hanging around - but that’s intentional. I like to keep the soil covered right up until the moment I’m planting out my next season’s seedlings. Old crops protect the soil, provide a habitat for beneficial insects, as well as a food source for the underground microbial life. Plants going to seed are a gift for bees and provide locally adapted seed for next season, plus a bit of shelter for young seedlings. When it’s finally time to clear them, I just cut them off at ground level, leaving roots in place to decompose and feed the next crop. The tops go straight into making compost.

As the weather warms up, so do the bugs. Keep an eye out for aphids, stink bugs and fluffy bums during your regular garden walks. This is when your garden’s natural defenders - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic wasps and praying mantises - get to work. Keep plants strong with monthly seaweed foliar sprays, ideally around the full moon, and if pests become a problem, neem oil (three applications, a week to 10 days apart) or Diatomaceous Earth can be helpful. Ideally, we wouldn’t have to rely on these products - the goal is to build a balanced ecology that works with nature to keep things in check.

Finally, don’t forget your fruit trees. Fertilise them, tidy and tie up berries, and plant citrus, passionfruit, avocado and tamarillo. Keep everything well-fed and mulched. Water deeply in the early morning - daily for new seedlings, less often for established plants - at least a couple of hours before sunset. Keep those garden beds mulched with pea straw, seaweed, untreated sawdust (finer than woodchip), wool, leaf litter or a living mulch of densely planted flowers and veg to lock in moisture.

Spring has been a wild one - I wouldn’t be surprised if summer threw a curveball or two!

Happy gardening!
Nicki – Vital Harvest

01/10/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR OCTOBER IN THE GARDEN

October is go-time in the garden, but don’t rush heat-loving crops. Soil temperature - more than sunshine - is the real decider of success. Tomatoes, capsicums, chillies, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, basil, beans and corn all need warmth at the roots. As a guide, most crops won’t thrive until soil temps reach 16°C, while tomatoes and chillies prefer 18–20°C. Don’t be fooled by sunny days - if nights are still cold, pot seedlings into larger containers with a rich compost/ potting mix and keep them sheltered indoors.

Crops to plant now: leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, bok choy, kale, celery, and herbs like fennel, rocket, coriander, mizuna, parsley and dill). Sow a little every few weeks for a steady supply. Legumes (peas and beans) don’t like their roots disturbed, so start them in cardboard tubes, such as toilet rolls, that can be planted straight out, tube and all.

Root crops: direct sow potatoes, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, radish and onions. Keep bird protection handy - cloches or netting work well. If you haven’t already, start sprouting your kumara, or look out for established tipu at farmers’ markets or garden centres. Here in the Waikato I plant mine in early November, once frost risk has passed, but planting in Northland can begin now.

Seed sowing - As a general rule, plant the seeds twice as deep as the width of the seed. A handy way to control the amount of mix you place over the seed is to 'dust' the seed mix like icing sugar on a cake through a plant pot with large holes. Space your seeds so that they won't get overcrowded in the tray as they grow.

Seedlings need a gentle introduction to the outdoors. Pop trays outside for 3–4 days before planting. After transplanting, give them a liquid seaweed feed to reduce shock and support strong root growth.

Spring winds are hard on plants and soil. Layers of protection works best: larger shelter trees on the boundary, evergreen shrubs and perennials close to the garden (citrus, feijoa, globe artichoke, Chilean guava, rosemary and pineapple sage are all excellent), plus large pots at the ends of raised beds for extra shelter.

Tall crops such as tomatoes, beans and sweet peas need solid supports - trellises, teepees or reinforcing mesh between posts. Stakes alone often aren’t enough. My tomato trellis has a cross bar across the top, with plants winding up taut strings from a loose noose (lol) at their base. Kings Seeds also recommend growing cucumbers on trellises, to improve airflow, reduce disease and produce straighter fruit. I usually grow mine along the ground over a thick layer of pea straw, but am going to go up this year - that way I can fit more in!

Flowers to sow this month: alyssum, borage, cosmos, sweet pea, poppy, nasturtium, echinacea, snapdragon, zinnia (my favourite companion plant - and the monarchs’ too), marigold, calendula, cornflower, salvia and sunflowers (in warmer areas). Plant dahlia tubers now as well.

In the orchard, plant citrus, passionfruit, tamarillo and avocado once frost danger has passed. Stake young trees, feed, and mulch well. If your trees had leaf curl last year, apply a copper spray as soon as fruit buds start to swell, then again two weeks later - ideally early in the morning before bees are active. Regular foliar feeds with seaweed or worm juice will keep trees strong and resilient. Plant a living mulch of herbs, garlic, chives, comfrey, borage and calendula at the base of fruit trees for health, protection and to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

Preparing beds: loosen and aerate soil with a fork (don’t turn it over - come to a workshop and I’ll explain why!), add compost plus a broad fertiliser such as Ocean Organics NZ Soil+, then mulch with pea straw, untreated sawdust or wool. Wool is excellent for retaining moisture, suppressing weeds and deterring slugs.

Next Edible Gardening Workshop: 18th October. We’ll cover soil health, seed sowing, succession planting, composting and worm farming. Suitable for both beginners and seasoned gardeners. Message Vital Harvest to join.

Happy gardening!
Nicki – Vital Harvest

19/09/2025

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Whether your feeding your garden, sipping on seaweed health teas or nourishing your skin with our range of soaps and creams - there is something for everyone this Spring.
Spend $70 and get 10% off your order or spend $150 and get 20% off your entire order.

01/09/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE TO SEPTEMBER IN THE GARDEN

After the stillness of winter, the sudden burst of green, daffodils, and lengthening days feel like such a gift. With soil beginning to warm, it’s prime time for sowing and planting, although I’d keep the cloches and frost cloths handy, as Spring is never known for being settled.

If your garden beds are looking a bit wild, lay old carpet or cardboard over them to smother weeds and spent crops. Once everything dies back, cut plants off at ground level and leave the roots in place to break down in the soil and boost organic matter. Amendments to refresh your soil and prepare it for the high workload ahead, include Ocean Organics NZ Soil+ (a stimulator for microbiology), leaf mould, vermicast, home made compost and aged manure. Rather than digging and turning, I simply aerate the soil using my fork and blend amendments into the top layer of the soil with my fingers. The least amount of soil disturbance, the more you will preserve your soil biology. Mulch areas that are going to lie bare for another month or two, to prevent weeds from becoming established.

September is the month for peas, lettuce, bok choy, celery, kohlrabi, broad beans, spring onions, beetroot, radish, coriander, mizuna, rocket, fennel, parsley, and spinach. It’s also the perfect time to get your summer carrots underway. I am sowing mine in a pot this season, an experiment to ensure I can keep the seed consistently moist and the tops free from pests. Brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and cabbage) can go in now too, but make sure to net them with fine mesh to keep the cabbage butterflies, who will arrive without fail when things warm up, at bay.

Wind is one of the most underestimated garden stressors. Smaller shrubs and perennials, pots that you can move around, and temporary barriers of shade cloth close to the garden are all excellent filters to protect delicate seedlings. Don’t forget to put sturdy supports in place for climbing beans, sweet peas, and tomatoes. I love a ' bean wall' and find reinforcing mesh hung between waratahs is a brilliantly sturdy option.

Indoors, or in the greenhouse, sow dwarf beans, capsicum, chillies, tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelon, aubergine, and zucchini. Be patient about planting them outside though - summer crops rely heavily on soil warmth, and heat-lovers in particular won’t thrive unless night time air temps are around 13°C and soil temps 18°C. If seedlings are ready before conditions outside are, pot them up into larger containers in a nutrient soil mix and keep them indoors until things stabilise. A splash of Ocean Organics NZ seaweed tonic will ease transplant shock and build strong root systems.

Companion planting brings bees and beneficial insects flocking to your garden. Native plants such as manuka, hebes, and harakeke and flowers such as sweet peas, alyssum, cornflowers, cosmos, poppies, nasturtiums, marigolds, violas, calendula, snapdragons, zinnias, and (in warmer spots) sunflowers, can all be sown now to encourage helpful allies like ladybugs, praying mantis, hoverflies, and even parasitic wasps (don’t worry, they don’t sting, but they do lay their eggs in caterpillars and other pests which eat their host when they hatch – gruesome but effective!)

Plant seed potatoes now for Christmas harvests, and start sprouting your kumara tipu (in a damp sandbox or suspended in water) for planting in November. Feed fruit trees with fresh compost, seaweed, leaf litter, or mulch around the base. Alternatively opt for a living mulch like comfrey, herbs, or flowers to provide year round support. And of course, keep an eye on slugs and snails: night raids, beer traps, ducks, or simple DIY cloches made from cut-off soda bottles all help.

This month I am running two Edible Gardening workshops at my home in the Karangahake Gorge - 20th September and 18th October. We’ll dive into soil health, crop rotation, companion planting, composting, and worm farming, with plenty to offer both beginners and experienced growers. Message me if you’d like to join in or book your spot on my website.

Happy growing!
Nicki, Vital Harvest

31/07/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE IN THE GARDEN FOR AUGUST

The days are getting longer and we're getting a few sneak previews of Spring, but that doesn't mean our soils (with the exception of the greenhouse and the far North) are warm enough to support summer crops just yet. August is really about getting ready: stocking up on seeds, preparing garden beds, nourishing soil, and making any final layout tweaks before the real frenzy of sowing and planting kicks off next month.

Enrich your soil with organic goodies like leaf mould, vermicast, well-aged animal manure, homemade compost, and seaweed based fertilisers, such as Ocean Organics NZ Soil+. Top it off with a generous layer of mulch to help build structure and retain moisture.

- Pruning Tips for Fruit Trees
I have been pruning the last of the deciduous fruit trees in the food forest. If you haven’t tackled yours yet, no stress, August is still suitable for apples and pears and stone fruit, particularly, can handle a summer prune. Citrus trees benefit from a tidy-up now: remove low-hanging, crossing or diseased branches, but a word of caution - borer insects are active from Spring to Autumn and are particularly attracted to fresh citrus cuts. Try to prune after the final frost but before spring really kicks off - tricky timing I know! Prune roses, feijoa and passionfruit vines.

If leaf curl or blackspot plagued your trees last year, apply a copper spray just as the fruit buds begin to swell, and repeat two weeks later. Always spray early in the morning, before the bees are active, as copper is toxic to them. Regular Ocean Organics NZ foliar sprays help to boost tree health, and neem oil is a great solution to overwintering pests. Mulch around your fruit trees and consider planting a “living mulch” beneath - comfrey, yarrow, calendula, borage, chives, and herbs are all excellent choices.

- What to Sow
Direct sow broad beans (an overnight soak in water will give them a head start) and radishes. While many people direct sow peas, I prefer to sow them indoors into cardboard rolls to avoid bird and snail damage. When the seedlings are about 10 cm tall, I plant them out, roll and all. Legumes have very large root systems that don't like to be disturbed, so they need deep pots.
Those with heat pads or room on a sunny windowsill can sow their heatlovers this month – tomatoes, chillies, capsicums.

- What to Plant
Plant out broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, celery, kale, onions, silverbeet, spinach, parsley, mizuna, tatsoi, rosemary, sage and thyme. Lettuces, beetroot, bok choy, rocket and coriander tend to perform better in the greenhouse this month, especially if you are in cooler regions. Don’t forget to 'harden off' your seedlings by putting them outside for a few days before transplanting. They may still need extra protection in the garden until they get established. Asparagus crowns, rhubarb and yacon can also go in.

- Plant for Pollinators
Beneficial flowers to plant include alyssum, borage, bishop's flower, calendula, cornflowers, cosmos, nigella, marigold, violas, poppies, sweetpeas, snapdragons and hollyhocks.

- Chitting Potatoes & Starting Kūmara Tipu
Begin chitting your potatoes by letting them sprout in a bright, warm spot - but not in direct sunlight. Choose seed potatoes or the best of last year’s harvest.
Start your kūmara tipu (sprouts) by placing kūmara in a moist sandbox or standing upright in half a glass of water. These sprouts will be your planting slips in a month or two.

- Garden Maintenance
Trim old strawberry leaves and remove runners for replanting as replacements for older plants. Strawberries need well-fed soils and a layer of mulch.
Liquid feed garlic twice a month to boost bulb development.
Divide perennials like daylilies, dahlias, bulbs, ornamental grasses, and flaxes, to prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate older plants. For those with a crown, use a sharp spade through the outer sections. Lift and divide bulbs and rhizomes. Trim any damaged roots and replant promptly then feed with compost and mulch. Delay dividing frost-tender plants until Spring.
Clean seed trays and pots with warm soapy water to remove any fungal spores, snails and insects. If you have a greenhouse, the surfaces may need a clean to eliminate mould or overwintering insects.

- Upcoming Workshops
Edible Gardening on the Home Block – 20th Sept & 18th Oct
Join me at my home garden for hands-on learning. Message me or visit my Vital Harvest website to secure your spot.

Happy Gardening,
Nicki

Address

7446 State Highway 2, RD 4
Paeroa
3674

Opening Hours

Monday	8am - 5pm
Tuesday	8am - 5pm
Wednesday	8am - 5pm
Thursday	8am - 5pm
Friday	8am - 5pm

Website

http://www.oceanorganics.co.nz/

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