Ocean Organics NZ

Ocean Organics NZ Family owned and operated, creating the rolls royce of liquid seaweed concentrates for soil and pla

Years ago, husband and wife, Jill Bradley and Keith Atwood went on a woofers holiday around organic farms of New Zealand. They discovered the true, rich tastes of organic fruit and veges and committed to growing organically for their family. Jill and Keith were educated on the inherent dangers of chemical cocktails applied to soil and plants. An organic farm in the Hawkes Bay impressed them with t

he health, abundance and lack of disease in the organics. The major inputs were seaweed and comfrey... So began a number of years of research. Keith experimented with brewing and Jill experimented with organic growing. Gardening friends soon began asking Jill and Keith to supply them. Ocean Organics was formed to provide organic alternatives for urban gardens. Our Philosophy -

-To produce 100% earth friendly products for the health of soil, plants & people
- To be engaged in the educative process of learning & teaching others about organic growing
- Ensure that organic products are available in a form that is convenient & easy to use
- To keep organic growing solutions cost effective compared with chemicals
- To encourage recycling of packaging
- We believe in the bio-dynamic principle of, NZ seaweed for NZ soil.

NICKI'S GUIDE IN THE GARDEN FOR MAYIt’s not too late to get food in the ground for winter - now is the time for leafy gr...
02/05/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE IN THE GARDEN FOR MAY

It’s not too late to get food in the ground for winter - now is the time for leafy greens especially. You may not harvest Brassicas (cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, kale) for a while, but the minute temperatures improve, they’ll burst into action and you’ll be glad you planted them too.

Other suggestions on what to plant - Direct sow broad beans, peas, shallots, coriander, mizuna, rocket, parsley, and radishes. Seedlings of silverbeet, beetroot, fennel, spinach, celery, bok choy, onions, and lettuce (choose cool-season lettuces like Oakleaf and Merveille des Quatre Saisons, and opt for red varieties for better cold tolerance). Divide and plant strawberries, and feed regularly with a liquid seaweed to keep plants strong and resilient.

Autumn can be unpredictable - so keep planting, pay attention to what works (and what doesn’t), and remember, that building healthy soil is an on-going process. The payoff is stronger, more resilient plants and fewer pest issues.

Boost soil by rotating crops and adding compost prior to planting new crops. A seasonal sprinkle of Ocean Organics NZ Soil+ will help correct nutrient deficiencies and stimulate microbial life. Leave the roots of old crops in the ground to feed soil life, and consider cover crops like lupins, broad beans or mustard to improve soil structure and suppress weeds.

Garlic planting season is here!. If you’re concerned about rust, elephant garlic is an option. It’s not technically garlic (it’s in the leek family) and is therefore less susceptible. While the traditional time to plant garlic in NZ is on the shortest day and harvest on the longest, it can actually be planted anytime from April through to the end of July.

My planting strategy is:
Plant according to the lunar calendar (7–10 days after the full moon is ideal for root crops).
Select the largest, well-formed outer cloves. Soak them overnight in a bucket with a bit of cow manure, diluted worm juice, and/or some liquid seaweed to inoculate and kick-start the cloves.
Lay them out on the bed, ensuring 15–20 cm spacing. Use a dibber or your thumb to make a hole, then press them into the soil, pointy end facing up and at least a thumb deep.
Add a layer of homemade compost or aged manure.
Water and mulch heavily—garlic hates competition from weeds.
Once the tips poke through the soil, apply a fortnightly foliar feed for the first few months.
About a month before harvest, stop watering completely.

Add winter colour with poppies, alyssum, calendula, cornflowers, stock, sweet peas and spring bulbs.

Harvest potatoes, pumpkins, and kūmara, especially in frosty areas. In milder zones, you can still plant more - pots are a great option for shelter, pest and moisture control.

Prune grapes, roses, and berries. The next couple of months are perfect for planting deciduous fruit trees, shelter trees, moving shrubs, and dividing perennials. As leaves fall, support tree health with an Ocean Organics NZ Liquid Foliar Concentrate spray.

And finally - collect as much leaf litter as you can. It’s gold for compost, mulch, or leaf mould, and your future soil will thank you.

Happy growing,
Nicki Murray-Orr, Vital Harvest

03/04/2026

Autumn in Aotearoa NZ brings an abundance of fruit and vegetables to enjoy! What are you harvesting, buying and eating right now? Feel free to share your top recipes and ways of preserving the harvest.

Eat in season for fresh and nutritious food - organic and local as much as possible!

Thanks to Foodprint NZ for the poster.

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR APRIL IN THE GARDEN...Recent drama in global politics, already having a knock-on effect in NZ, makes m...
01/04/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR APRIL IN THE GARDEN...

Recent drama in global politics, already having a knock-on effect in NZ, makes my desire to grow as much of my own food as possible feel more pressing than ever. Most of you reading this will no doubt already be some way along that home garden path, which is great - but perhaps I can encourage you to sneak in a few more greens in spare corners?

With temperatures dropping and daylight saving ending, growth will slow. To eat homegrown in winter, plant now - especially brassicas, which take the longest. Plant broccoli, kale, cauliflower, or cabbage this week, again next month, and again in May (in milder regions) to stagger harvests.

Direct sow carrots, radishes, daikon, turnips (ideally the week after the full moon), broad beans, parsnips, parsley, rocket, coriander, mizuna, and peas. Start peas and sweet peas in toilet rolls, then plant out (roll and all) at around 10 cm to to avoid losing some to hungry birds.

Garlic can go in this month, particularly in rust-prone regions. Plant into rich soil with wide spacing, mulch heavily, and apply fortnightly liquid feeds once foliage appears for the first few months.

Alongside brassicas, plant beetroot, bok choy, celery, chard, kohlrabi, fennel, globe artichokes, leeks, lettuce (cool-season varieties like buttercrunch and drunken woman), onions, silverbeet, spring onions, and potatoes (in frost-free zones). Harden off seedlings (homegrown and purchased) for 4–7 days before planting out, and water in with liquid seaweed to reduce transplant shock.

Summer crops and flowers are still finishing - clear around them, as they provide great protection for tender young seedlings, food for the bees, and the opportunity to save seed. Cut spent crops at ground level, add Ocean Organics Soil+ and compost, gently aerate compact soil (no turning), then plant and mulch with seaweed, aged sawdust, sheep wool, chopped crops (calendula is great), or a mix. Save seed from coriander, carrots, zinnia, lettuce, sunflowers, capsicums, beans, and tomatoes.

Autumn is prime composting time. Add equal parts brown leaf litter to green waste for beautiful compost by summer. Leaf litter can also be stored in bags or left to form leaf mould - an excellent carbon-rich amendment.

Harvest potatoes, squash, kūmara, and pumpkin when stems have dried, ideally on a three-quarter moon (week after the full moon) for better storage. Plant strawberry runners into compost-rich soil. Let asparagus go to seed, then cut back and mulch as it dies down, feeding with seaweed or compost.

Plant flowers such as cornflower, dianthus, larkspur, poppy, sweet peas, stock, borage, and spring bulbs. For pest deterrence, include marigold, mint, lemon balm, calendula, thyme, chives, and anise hyssop.

Sow cover crops - mustard, buckwheat, broad beans, phacelia, or mixes like peas, oats, and lupins - to fill gaps and revitalise tired soils. In small gardens, ‘guerrilla planting’ lupins among crops is a simple way to give back to the soil.

Prune stone fruit (peaches, nectarines, plums) and only use copper spray if leaf curl has been an issue. Otherwise, feed with liquid seaweed or EM to boost overall health. Prune pip fruit later in winter and citrus in spring; feed and mulch citrus now.

Plant natives, ornamentals, citrus, feijoas, and blueberries. Divide perennials, move shrubs or small trees if needed, and order bare-rooted fruit trees now for June/July delivery.

Happy growing,
Nicki, Vital Harvest

24/03/2026

What fruit and veges are in season for March in Aotearoa NZ? Check out this poster from Foodprint NZ.

What are you eating and growing? Share your photos, growing tips and successes, and ask any questions about organic food and growing!

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR MARCH IN THE GARDEN...Every single March I reflect on the summer that has been. So often they are wild...
01/03/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR MARCH IN THE GARDEN...

Every single March I reflect on the summer that has been. So often they are wildly fluctuating and testing for growers, and this one has been no exception - especially for those of us in the Waikato (and the BOP, and the East Cape…). I’m feeling a little robbed, to be honest, so I’m making the most of the long daylight hours while we still have them and turning my focus to what I want to eat this winter.

The week after the full moon (Wednesday the 4th - a Blood Moon!) I’ll be sowing root crops: carrots, radish, beetroot, kohlrabi, parsnips and onions. I love my March-sown carrots - they’re the easiest to get established and they store beautifully in the garden. Be sure to keep the seed continually moist for the 2–3 weeks it takes to germinate (and keep it netted to protect it from the birds).

The few days leading up to the full moon, and a few days afterwards, are also ideal for liquid feeding - a great way to boost weary summer crops and get new seedlings off to a strong start. Diluted seaweed, worm juice, comfrey tea - whatever you have to hand. I make up a big backpack sprayer of Ocean Organics Seaweed Foliar Feed and spray the veggie garden as well as the orchard.

This month I’m also sowing onions, spring onions, bok choy, fennel, parsley, mizuna, rocket, coriander, spinach, lettuce, celery and, most importantly, my brassicas - broccoli, kale and cabbage. Planting brassicas every month from now through to May will ensure a steady stream of harvests. Brassicas will require netting to protect them from the nefarious cabbage white butterfly, who especially likes to lay its eggs on broccoli, kale and cabbage. The netting can be removed once the first frost hits.

Companion flowers like calendula, chamomile, larkspur, cornflower, snapdragons, nigella, bishop’s flower, poppies, borage, sweet peas and spring bulbs are all good to plant this month.

Autumn is the perfect time for dividing perennials and moving things around if you need to. And of course, it’s time to order bare-rooted fruit trees from nurseries, which will be delivered in June/July. Edible Garden Ltd is my go-to for excellent specimens. Plant rhubarb and asparagus crowns, and divide your strawberry plants by separating the runners from the main plant.

As space becomes available, give your soil a boost with cover crops like broad beans, buckwheat, lupins or mustard. Cover crops improve soil health by building organic matter, fixing nitrogen and reducing compaction. Allow 2–4 weeks for the cover crop to be broken down by the soil food web before you sow any edible crops.

The real key to healthy soil is avoiding bare patches. Even an old sack or carpet can help protect it and keep the soil biology thriving until you’re ready to replant. Enrich your soil with compost or well-rotted manure, and continue to mulch to prevent compaction from heavy rains.

Other odd jobs: lift kumara vines to prevent them from re-rooting and to keep their energy directed into tuber production. Pinch out the tips of pumpkins to stop further vine growth and help the fruit fatten up. In the orchard, prune your stone fruit as soon as fruiting is finished. Pip fruit can wait until later in winter, and it’s best to avoid pruning citrus at this time of year, as the native lemon tree borer can lay eggs in fresh cuts.

Garlic can be planted any time from now until around the shortest day of the year. In wet and humid climates like Waihi, it’s worth planting early to avoid rust. Plant in rich, well-composted soil with plenty of space between plants. Mulch heavily and apply liquid foliar feeds every two weeks during the first few months.

And finally, make compost with all the summer crops coming out of the garden. As the leaves start to fall, rake them up for your compost heap or store them for a year or more to make leaf mould - a super-nutritious, carbon-rich soil amendment.

My Moon Phases & Gardening Calendar is now on sale - only $20! Order online at vitalharvest.co.nz

Happy growing,
Nicki, Vital Harvest

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR FEBRUARY IN THE GARDEN;It’s been a wild and frankly grim summer across much of the country. The most r...
01/02/2026

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR FEBRUARY IN THE GARDEN;

It’s been a wild and frankly grim summer across much of the country. The most recent storm battered and bruised the Coromandel (where I am) and caused devastation throughout the Bay of Plenty and the East Cape. Our hearts are heavy following the tragic slips at Mount Maunganui.

These storms are no longer isolated events but part of a wider pattern of extreme weather. Moving forward, we need to shift from conversation to action, focusing on preparedness and resilience. Some of the most powerful responses can begin right at home - in our gardens, farms, and communities.

We can reduce the impact and build resilience in our landscapes with relatively simple strategies; keeping soil covered with plants, mulch, cover crops, and trees, which stabilises land, slows water movement, and locks carbon where it belongs. Breaking up hard surfaces allows water to soak in rather than rush away. Growing food locally reduces transport emissions and strengthens food security. Our backyard systems are often far more diverse and therefore resilient than large-scale monocultures. Working with nature, by designing to natural patterns rather than neat straight lines, creates stronger landscapes. Sharing skills, seeds, food, and support strengthens communities too. Ironically extreme weather events bring out the best in us collectively.

This challenging summer will no doubt impact many crops. My stone fruit is splitting before fully ripening, and my outdoor tomatoes are sulking - their support structure has even collapsed! I’m very thankful to have a backup crop in the greenhouse, which is doing well. Swings and roundabouts: the salads and leafy greens, at least, have loved the rain.

With a challenging summer behind us, it’s easy to start thinking ahead to winter. February is when I start sowing winter crops, especially my first round of brassicas ( broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and brussels sprouts). I plant a few each month from now through to May, to ensure a steady harvest all winter long. The white cabbage butterfly is still active, so netting is absolutely essential (check for eggs on the underside of leaves before planting and netting). A gentle forking (not turning), followed by a layer of compost and a sprinkle of organic full-spectrum fertiliser, such as Ocean Organics Soil+, is an excellent way to refresh tired soils.

The week after the full moon (which is on Tuesday the 2nd) is ideal for sowing root crops like carrots, parsnips, kohlrabi, daikon, radish, and beetroot. Otherwise, coriander, rocket, parsley, spring onions, leeks, dwarf beans, lettuce, bok choy, celery, fennel, spinach, silverbeet, and chard are all good to sow or plant this month. Flowers to plant now include anise hyssop, alyssum, borage, calendula, chamomile, cornflowers, dianthus, larkspur, nigella (love-in-a-mist), snapdragons and spring-flowering bulbs. Deadhead roses and perennials, prune and shape bay, lavender, and rosemary.

Pinch back overly tall tomato plants to encourage ripening, keep removing excess leaves for airflow, and continue liquid seaweed feeds. Watch for powdery mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, and pumpkins and remove affected leaves promptly.

As crops finish, cut them off at ground level and leave roots in the soil to decompose. Follow with quick-growing greens or sow cover crops such as lupin, buckwheat, phacelia, or broad beans to prepare beds for winter brassicas or garlic.

Now is also a great time to save seed from easy crops like lettuce, tomatoes, beans, and capsicum - just be sure they’re heirloom or open-pollinated varieties to ensure they grow "true to type".

Happy growing,
Nicki
Vital Harvest

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR JANUARY IN THE GARDENHappy New Year, gardeners and growers!At the Summer Solstice, many of us were rev...
31/12/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR JANUARY IN THE GARDEN

Happy New Year, gardeners and growers!
At the Summer Solstice, many of us were reveling in those long, hot December days - but over large parts of the country, things have taken a very blustery turn. My dahlias are down, the tomatoes are sulking, and the weeds seem to have grown inches overnight!

Times like these, I’m grateful for the infrastructure I’ve put in place - and quietly cursing the areas where I haven’t. I have been tying up tomato leaders both outside and in the tunnel house, where the wind seems to bellow straight through. Good airflow in the greenhouse is essential, especially with the humidity we’re experiencing, so I’ve been leaving the doors open. As things heat up again in January, I’ll cover the tunnel house with shade cloth to prevent it becoming intensely hot. On the next dry day, I’ll also remove more tomato laterals (the shoots that grow between the main stem and a leaf) to avoid overcrowding.

January is an abundant month in the garden, but the heat can be demanding and summer storms challenging. Keep plants thriving with regular seaweed liquid feeds and mindful watering practices. Aim for a deep soak every few days rather than a daily sprinkle. For established crops, check the soil with your finger and water only when it feels dry. Replenish soil with compost or well-rotted manure and top up the mulch.

I’ve harvested my Elephant garlic and am delighted with a rust-free crop, though I’ll be interested to see how it compares flavour-wise to my traditional varieties. When around half the foliage on onions, shallots, and garlic has browned, it’s time to harvest. If you’re storing crops, harvesting in the week after the full moon - when sap flow slows - is ideal. Set aside (or source, if you haven’t grown your own) garlic seed for the April/May planting window.

Things to sow and plant now include coriander and rocket (in the shade), chamomile, chives, parsley, radish, basil, dwarf beans, beetroot, celery, leeks, silverbeet, spinach, spring onions, and heat-tolerant lettuce varieties such as Drunken Woman, Little Gem, Buttercrunch, or Canasta. In warmer regions, you can still sneak in a few climbing beans, cucumbers, and zucchinis. Keep harvesting - regular picking encourages fresh growth.

Flowers to sow include alyssum, borage, calendula, cosmos, cornflower, marigold, lavender, sunflowers, and zinnia. Consider cover crops like lupins (excellent ahead of winter brassicas), buckwheat, and mustard - which is ideal for cleansing soil after potatoes, garlic, or tomatoes. Collect drying flower seed and make sure your dahlias and sunflowers are well staked for support.

Pest control is particularly important this month, as heat and poor airflow can quickly stress plants. Squish what you see on sight, hose off aphids, or add neem oil to your seaweed feed.

Soil and microorganisms alike need consistent moisture to stay active, so worm farms and compost heaps may need the occasional bucket of water. I move my worm farm into a shadier spot at this time of year.

As fruit ripens in the orchard, netting may be necessary to keep birds from beating you to the harvest. A little judicious thinning can encourage larger fruit and prevent bruising or the spread of disease. Once stone fruit has been harvested, trees can be pruned. Don’t forget to feed and mulch citrus.

My next Edible Gardening Workshop will be held on 21 February, at my home. Register your interest via vitalharvest.co.nz

Wishing you all a healthy and abundant 2026.
Nicki – Vital Harvest

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR DECEMBER IN THE GARDENSummer has officially arrived, and with it comes the busy rush of the festive se...
01/12/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR DECEMBER IN THE GARDEN

Summer has officially arrived, and with it comes the busy rush of the festive season. It’s easy to let the garden slip down the priority list, but regular check-ins will pay dividends.

Most of your main summer crops should already be planted. Make sure taller crops are well supported - especially tomatoes. On a dry day, remove the laterals (the shoots that grow between the main stem and a leaf) to boost airflow and prevent overcrowding. Climbing beans will need a trellis or teepee to scramble up, while bush beans can be tucked into any spare pockets of space. Keep sowing a few every couple of weeks.

Zucchini, cucumbers, melons, sweetcorn, pumpkins and squash should all be in by now - keep them mulched and watered. Chillies, capsicum and eggplants can still go out in a sunny spot. In the orchard or food forest, you can plant rhubarb, grapes, passionfruit and tamarillo.

From here, it’s all about small, steady actions. Successive planting every 3-4 weeks keeps the harvests flowing: mizuna, rocket and coriander (in shady spots), Asian greens, basil, beans, lettuces, beetroot, parsley, spring onions, silverbeet, spinach, radishes, cucumbers and even another zucchini or two. There’s still time for strawberries, kūmara and potatoes.

For flowers, amaranth, bishop’s flower, poppies, nasturtiums, cosmos, sunflowers, echinacea, zinnias, calendula, marigolds, cornflowers and salvias, all boost pollination and add colour.

Mulching is essential - use close plantings, pea straw, seaweed, untreated sawdust or homemade mulch to conserve moisture, block weeds and protect soil life. Stressed plants (too dry or too wet) are more disease-prone, so use your finger as a moisture gauge and skip watering if the soil is still damp.

Watch for stink bugs, aphids and other pests - squish on sight. A three-weekly neem spray helps, but diversity and allowing some plants to flower and seed will bring beneficial insects (like ladybirds who can eat up to 50 aphids in a day!). Keep up the seaweed foliar sprays as a preventative measure

And finally - keep picking! Harvesting encourages fresh growth. Fossick for new potatoes, and check onions and garlic; when about half the leaves are brown, harvest time is close. Keep an eye on tomatoes, zucchini and beans; they’ll start appearing overnight before you know it!

My next Edible Gardening Workshop will be held on the 21st Feb.

Wishing you a safe, sunny and joyful festive season.
Nicki - Vital Harvest

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR NOVEMBER IN THE GARDENNovember has to be one of the best months in the garden - everything really star...
01/11/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN

November has to be one of the best months in the garden - everything really starts to take off! Here in the Waikato, it’s prime time for summer planting - soils are warmer and night-time temperatures have stabilised. If you’re further south though, keep those frost cloths handy for a little while longer. Fingers crossed that was the last of the snowfall in the South!

I’ve been putting my recycling to good use, turning old soda bottles into mini cloches for early plantings of beans, zucchini and cucumbers. They stay cosy under cover at night, then get a sunshine fix during the day when I lift off the cloches. A client has also been keeping the wool insulation from her food box orders for me. I’ve been using these to not only protect tender young seedlings, but also as a slug and snail deterrent. The wool from shearing my sheep has been amazing around my winter brassicas for the same reason and will be used again to retain soil moisture around my tomatoes over summer.

Speaking of tomatoes - they’ve just gone in! I’m desperately hoping there won’t be any late frost surprises (Labour Weekend planting can still be precarious in my neck of the woods). They’ll get plenty of Ocean Organics NZ seaweed foliar feeding to help them settle in.

Next week it’s all go on the pumpkins (it’s root crop week according to the lunar calendar). Other root crops to sow and plant include spring onions, onions, beetroot, radish, parsnip, potatoes and kūmara. Carrots are best sown this month before it gets too hot. NB carrot seed needs to stay consistently moist for the 2–3 weeks it takes to germinate, and be protected from birds. Another good slug and snail deterrent is coffee grounds and crushed eggshells. However, my ultimate advice is to get out at night - just on dark with a head torch on - for some digital control. Or get ducks!

November is a brilliant time for sowing and planting lettuce and leafy greens- silverbeet, pak choy, spinach, cress, sorrel, fennel, celery, and herbs like rocket, coriander, mizuna, parsley, chervil, dill and chives. Sow or plant every 2–3 weeks for a steady supply. It’s also full steam ahead for planting out sweetcorn, chillies, capsicum, basil, cucumbers, pumpkins, melons and eggplants. If you’re growing brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbages), cover them with fine insect mesh - the cabbage white butterflies are already out and about!

I tend to go a little flower-crazy at this time of year - dahlias, zinnias, sweet peas, stock, poppies, nasturtiums, cosmos, sunflowers, echinacea, snapdragons, marigolds, calendula, cornflowers and salvia. I love the colour in the veggie patch, and they’ll keep the pollinators happy and your garden thriving.

Right now, my garden looks a little unruly - winter crops still hanging around - but that’s intentional. I like to keep the soil covered right up until the moment I’m planting out my next season’s seedlings. Old crops protect the soil, provide a habitat for beneficial insects, as well as a food source for the underground microbial life. Plants going to seed are a gift for bees and provide locally adapted seed for next season, plus a bit of shelter for young seedlings. When it’s finally time to clear them, I just cut them off at ground level, leaving roots in place to decompose and feed the next crop. The tops go straight into making compost.

As the weather warms up, so do the bugs. Keep an eye out for aphids, stink bugs and fluffy bums during your regular garden walks. This is when your garden’s natural defenders - ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic wasps and praying mantises - get to work. Keep plants strong with monthly seaweed foliar sprays, ideally around the full moon, and if pests become a problem, neem oil (three applications, a week to 10 days apart) or Diatomaceous Earth can be helpful. Ideally, we wouldn’t have to rely on these products - the goal is to build a balanced ecology that works with nature to keep things in check.

Finally, don’t forget your fruit trees. Fertilise them, tidy and tie up berries, and plant citrus, passionfruit, avocado and tamarillo. Keep everything well-fed and mulched. Water deeply in the early morning - daily for new seedlings, less often for established plants - at least a couple of hours before sunset. Keep those garden beds mulched with pea straw, seaweed, untreated sawdust (finer than woodchip), wool, leaf litter or a living mulch of densely planted flowers and veg to lock in moisture.

Spring has been a wild one - I wouldn’t be surprised if summer threw a curveball or two!

Happy gardening!
Nicki – Vital Harvest

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR OCTOBER IN THE GARDENOctober is go-time in the garden, but don’t rush heat-loving crops. Soil temperat...
01/10/2025

NICKI'S GUIDE FOR OCTOBER IN THE GARDEN

October is go-time in the garden, but don’t rush heat-loving crops. Soil temperature - more than sunshine - is the real decider of success. Tomatoes, capsicums, chillies, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, basil, beans and corn all need warmth at the roots. As a guide, most crops won’t thrive until soil temps reach 16°C, while tomatoes and chillies prefer 18–20°C. Don’t be fooled by sunny days - if nights are still cold, pot seedlings into larger containers with a rich compost/ potting mix and keep them sheltered indoors.

Crops to plant now: leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, bok choy, kale, celery, and herbs like fennel, rocket, coriander, mizuna, parsley and dill). Sow a little every few weeks for a steady supply. Legumes (peas and beans) don’t like their roots disturbed, so start them in cardboard tubes, such as toilet rolls, that can be planted straight out, tube and all.

Root crops: direct sow potatoes, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, radish and onions. Keep bird protection handy - cloches or netting work well. If you haven’t already, start sprouting your kumara, or look out for established tipu at farmers’ markets or garden centres. Here in the Waikato I plant mine in early November, once frost risk has passed, but planting in Northland can begin now.

Seed sowing - As a general rule, plant the seeds twice as deep as the width of the seed. A handy way to control the amount of mix you place over the seed is to 'dust' the seed mix like icing sugar on a cake through a plant pot with large holes. Space your seeds so that they won't get overcrowded in the tray as they grow.

Seedlings need a gentle introduction to the outdoors. Pop trays outside for 3–4 days before planting. After transplanting, give them a liquid seaweed feed to reduce shock and support strong root growth.

Spring winds are hard on plants and soil. Layers of protection works best: larger shelter trees on the boundary, evergreen shrubs and perennials close to the garden (citrus, feijoa, globe artichoke, Chilean guava, rosemary and pineapple sage are all excellent), plus large pots at the ends of raised beds for extra shelter.

Tall crops such as tomatoes, beans and sweet peas need solid supports - trellises, teepees or reinforcing mesh between posts. Stakes alone often aren’t enough. My tomato trellis has a cross bar across the top, with plants winding up taut strings from a loose noose (lol) at their base. Kings Seeds also recommend growing cucumbers on trellises, to improve airflow, reduce disease and produce straighter fruit. I usually grow mine along the ground over a thick layer of pea straw, but am going to go up this year - that way I can fit more in!

Flowers to sow this month: alyssum, borage, cosmos, sweet pea, poppy, nasturtium, echinacea, snapdragon, zinnia (my favourite companion plant - and the monarchs’ too), marigold, calendula, cornflower, salvia and sunflowers (in warmer areas). Plant dahlia tubers now as well.

In the orchard, plant citrus, passionfruit, tamarillo and avocado once frost danger has passed. Stake young trees, feed, and mulch well. If your trees had leaf curl last year, apply a copper spray as soon as fruit buds start to swell, then again two weeks later - ideally early in the morning before bees are active. Regular foliar feeds with seaweed or worm juice will keep trees strong and resilient. Plant a living mulch of herbs, garlic, chives, comfrey, borage and calendula at the base of fruit trees for health, protection and to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

Preparing beds: loosen and aerate soil with a fork (don’t turn it over - come to a workshop and I’ll explain why!), add compost plus a broad fertiliser such as Ocean Organics NZ Soil+, then mulch with pea straw, untreated sawdust or wool. Wool is excellent for retaining moisture, suppressing weeds and deterring slugs.

Next Edible Gardening Workshop: 18th October. We’ll cover soil health, seed sowing, succession planting, composting and worm farming. Suitable for both beginners and seasoned gardeners. Message Vital Harvest to join.

Happy gardening!
Nicki – Vital Harvest

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