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Gray Horse Leatherworks, Mint Hill, NC (2026)

03/13/2026

FLASH NOSEBAND

What is it❓
It’s a circular strap attached to a crank or cavesson Noseband that encircles the nose and lower jaw in front of the bit.

What does it do❓
It provides another point of forced closure of the mouth/jaw.

COMMON MYTHS DEBUNKED:
1️⃣ The only way a flash will stabilize the bit is if you have a loose ring bit that easily pulls through the mouth, and forceably closing the mouth helps prevent this. But this is remedied with a fixed cheek bit and no, it will not “support” the bit unless it is fixed so high that the bit is forced up the lips (which is no good).
2️⃣ No matter how tight you fasten a Noseband, the horse will still want/need to move their jaw. These, and even figure 8s, do not prevent jaw crossing. In fact, if the horse is so restricted from opening their mouth by the Noseband, they may resort to jaw crossing as an attempt at relief.
3️⃣ No matter how tight the Noseband, a horse can put its tongue over the bit (because it can do so with its mouth closed). However, it can make it extremely difficult for the horse to get their tongue back under it. And during that attempt, the bit can do some damage to their bars.
4️⃣ While it shouldn’t restrict breathing as much as a drop Noseband, it will still press into the nasal passages when the horse opens their mouth against it.
5️⃣ True acceptance of the bit does not come from shutting the mouth around it. Period. A closed mouth does not equal softness and willingness.

Why would you want to use this ❓
One reason - to prevent the horse from opening the mouth. I’ve spoken in many other posts about nosebands and why this is so problematic. Forceably closing the jaw is going to create far more problems than it solves.

Yes, if the jaw is clamped shut, the horse cannot evade the bit by opening its mouth. But as we know, there are MANY other ways the horse can evade the contact. And masking this with a flash/crank/drop Noseband is not solving the issue. It is usually an uncomfortable bit, training issue, rider issue, or wellness/fitness issue. None of these are solved by clamping the mouth down.

Suspect your horse is evading contact due to an uncomfortable bit? Reach out for a consultation! 🙋🏼‍♀️

03/05/2026

Often thought to be the kindest bits - These straight rubber/synthetic mouthpieces can be quite problematic!

HERE’S WHY:

▪️They are usually too thick. The average horse can accommodate a bit approx, 13mm thick. Only a few outliers can comfortably accommodate bits larger than 17mm. Most rubber bits are over 20mm in diameter! 📏

▪️ They can chafe and dry out the mouth. 👄

▪️They are often rigid (seen in the video) which can lead to a dull or heavy feeling in the contact, depending on the sensitivity level of the horse. 💪🏻

▪️They can easily be damaged (see teeth marks on the left of the bit at the end of the video) which can cause rough/sharp points that can harm the horse. This can also become a safety issue. ⚠️

▪️Some types are more porous which harbor bacteria and can be very difficult to clean. 🦠

HOWEVER:

This being said, I don’t hate synthetic bits!❕
There are newer models being made that alleviate most of the concerns above - and some horses really appreciate the mouth feel, slight give, and pressure distribution. I keep some in my inventory in every size for this very reason. The Sprenger Duo is my personal favorite ❤️

Every horse must be evaluated as an individual. Think your horse may go well in one, but not sure which to choose? Reach out to book a consultation 💻 🙋🏼‍♀️

🎥 credit

03/02/2026

✨ New bridle alert ✨

All buckles are at the top of the crown beneath a generously padded section that runs down past the base of the ears to keep the cheek pieces and browband off of the TMJ.

Buckles will not produce pressure points and if you don’t like the look of the buckles at the top I made a removable cover (see last photo) out of soft leather.

It is highly adjustable without fear of crowding in sensitive areas or interference of the cheek pieces. It is also easily customizable and pieces can easily be replaced to use for different horses.

There are still a few things I want to tweak and perfect but so far I am thrilled with it. One thing that is nice about being a bridle fitter AND a leather craftswoman is that I can turn visions of an “ideal bridle” into reality myself!

02/27/2026

CURB GAG

What is it❓
Is it a curb bit or a gag bit? Kinda both, kinda neither! This is a newer invention, I believe intended to have the benefit of a curb bit with the action of a gag… unfortunately it doesn’t achieve this well.

How does it work❓
Instead of the rein sliding thru the bit and over the poll like a traditional gag, it runs through the bit and under the jaw. It uses leverage against the jaw to apply poll pressure ⬇️ and force the mouthpiece down against the tongue/bars ⬇️

How is this different from a gag bit❓
A gag sends conflicting signals - head up (stretches lips up) ⬆️ and head down (poll pressure) ⬇️, can damage lips and over-rotate the mouthpiece 🔄.
A curb gag will not apply as much poll pressure and will not over-stretch the lips. However, it uses leverage against the jaw to squash the tongue and bars of the mouth. Over-rotation of the mouthpiece is less of a risk due to the loose ring and limiting action of the curb. Neither sends a clear, direct signal to the horse, and both will have a delayed release.

How is this different from a curb bit❓
A curb bit sits lower in the mouth with the curb chain/strap in the protected “curb groove”. Some poll pressure encourages flexion at the poll, while rotation of the mouthpiece and pressure from the curb chain encourages softness in the jaw. A curb gag is more likely to cause tension in the poll/jaw due to the muddled signal, higher position in mouth, and delayed release.

Why might a horse feel better in this setup❓
PERCEIVED softness through the mechanics of the bit, transmitting through the reins, rather than actual acceptance of the bit.

Key points to remember ❗️
🔹 Curb bits are not intended for constant use/force, and their biggest asset is pre-signal on a finely trained horse.
🔹 Gag bits send delayed, mixed signals to the horse.
🔹 Gag bits should always be used with two sets of reins, the snaffle (direct rein) being the primary.
🔹 Whether you have a gag, curb, or curb gag bit, these all apply far more pressure to the horse than is perceived by the rider and therefore must be used with great caution.

Have a strong horse, and thinking about bitting up? Reach out for a consultation!

02/17/2026

How to know if your bit is the right size❓

Before you can evaluate, first make sure:
1️⃣ the bit in the correct position in the mouth (I have other videos that cover this), and
2️⃣ the bridle is on straight and the bit is centered in the horse’s mouth.

Now, do you have a loose ring bit or fixed cheek bit❔

🔹For fixed cheek bits, the cheek piece should just barely touch the corners of the mouth, or have up to 1/4” space between.

🔹For loose ring bits, make sure the lips are not contacting the ring, and have approx 1/3” space between the lips and the hole which the ring passes through.

Generally speaking, you want to size up for a loose ring bit to prevent the lips from being pinched 🤏
So, if your horse is a 5” eggbutt, they will likely be a 5.25” loose ring.

The acceptable tolerance for these rules also depends on the mouthpiece type and shape.

For example, Some bits (like a Myler level 1 type) will have extra curvature toward the ends that will make it “stick out” of the mouth a little more, especially when viewed from the front.

A bit too snug will pinch and chafe the lips, and can push the lips inward towards the molars, which can cause blisters and even lacerations (horse’s teeth can be sharp!)

A bit too loose will slide through the mouth more freely and can be very disruptive and uncomfortable. Depending on the mechanics/mouthpiece type, It can also push the lips inward, risking chafing and blistering.

Still unsure if your bit is the right fit for your horse? Reach out for a consultation - I am happy to help! 🙋🏼‍♀️

🎥 & 🐴 thanks to

02/12/2026

WAR BRIDLE

What is it❓
The original war bridle was fashioned by native Americans (Plains Indians) - a rawhide or horsehair rope wrapped around the lower jaw of the horse with reins attached to a knot at the base below the chin.

How does it fit❓
The tie below the chin may be snug, but not tight, as the “bit” is held in the mouth by the horse. The setup should be fit snug enough so that it has some stability and can’t easily drop out of the mouth, should the horse open it, but not tight as to fix the position.

When would this be used❓
It is to be used ONLY in neck reining, not direct reining. The reins are connected to a single point, or knot, at the base below the chin (not too dissimilar to a western jaquima / bosal).

While you may still see this around today, and possibly with softer materials, it is more of a novelty item than an effective / humane setup.

Here’s why:
🔸 It is only effective and safe for use with a horse and rider that can go completely bridleless (all cues from leg/seat/voice), as there is always a risk of the bit falling out of the mouth ⚠️
🔸 High probability of chafing the mouth (tongue, palate, lips, lower jaw) 😣
🔸 Direct manipulation of the lower jaw (from all angles) can lead to TMJ issues 🤕
🔸 If the horse steps on the reins, or the reins are caught, this can break the jaw 😨

What about the English version❓
A “bridleless bit”, a leather mouthpiece with rings on the side and a snug leather curb strap to fix in place, is often (incorrectly) called a war bridle but its use/mechanics are different. I can cover this in another post in the future 🌈

Is your horse irritated by a bridle? Interested in trying a bridleless or bitless option? Contact me first for a consultation 🙋🏼‍♀️ 💻

02/10/2026

I’m honestly surprised my husband hasn’t entered me to be on the “my strange addiction” show for the sheer quantity of bits I buy 🤣

02/05/2026

PELHAM GAG BITS

These are essentially a pelham with a running gag in place of a snaffle ring. The incorporation of both mechanics unfortunately does not work effectively.

The gag component applies pressure to the mouth, lips and poll, and will:
🔸 Send conflicting signals (poll pressure = head down + stretched lips = head up)
🔸 over-stretch lips and lift bit towards molars
🔸 Lift curb chain higher up the jaw, which will engage it sooner
🔸 Have a delayed signal / release
🔸 Rotate mouthpiece

The curb component applies pressure to the mouth, poll and lower jaw, and will:
🔹 Rotate mouthpiece (up until point where curb chain is engaged)
🔹 Distribute the greatest pressure to whichever component is engaged first based on the fit (more about this in other posts)

Curb bits are supposed to sit lower in the mouth with the curb chain sitting in the curb groove (fleshy area of lower jaw closest to the chin) to be effective as a leverage bit, encouraging flexion in the poll and softness in the jaw.

However, adding a gag component stretches this bit upwards, the bit becomes more of a pain tool than a communication tool. 😣

This is why:
🔺 Curb chain will engage at a different time, every time the reins are taken up.
🔺 Excess pressure at poll, lips, and lower jaw, without much force from reins
🔺 Bit can contact molars
🔺 Risk of bruising lower jaw
🔺 Lips become over-stretched and often push into molars, leading to scarring, tearing, loss of feeling

Don’t trust everything you see on your peers horses or on manufacturers’ ads ‼️ Every horse is an individual and some bits, even in the “right hands”, are not fair communication tools.

Not sure what type of bit would suit your horse? Reach out for a consultation! 🙋🏼‍♀️ 💻

02/03/2026

DID YOU KNOW?

The average horse can accommodate a bit up to 13mm thick in the center. Only a few outliers can comfortably accommodate bits larger than 17mm.
(For reference The larger bit shown here is 18mm thick)

Additionally, the average horse has a bar spacing of 1.3”. (For reference, the larger bit shown here has a center lozenge that is about 2” long)

Beyond the lozenge size, look at the size of those joints! Big joints = additional pressure points 👎🏻

Every horse needs to be evaluated as an individual! Think your horse may go well in a double jointed bit, but not sure which one to choose? Reach out to book a consultation 💻🙋🏼‍♀️

🎥

01/29/2026

LUNGING CAVESSONS

At first glance, these look like a bridle/halter hybrid - and they kind of are! There are many different styles, but you can spot these by the multiple rings on the Noseband, meant for a lunge line attachment.

Key benefits of a (properly made/fit) lunging cavesson:
▪️ Allow for connection of the lunge without interference with the bit
▪️ Stability
▪️ Better control of bend on the circle (the degree of which depends on what ring you connect the lunge to)
▪️ Increased control
▪️ Preserves the horse’s mouth
▪️ Most are well-padded to protect the nose

Key features:
🔹 Jowl strap - this is key for stability, comfortability, and effectiveness of the entire setup
🔹 Padded nose - the metal framed styles can be OK as long as they are fit well to the horse and are well-padded
🔹 Central ring - this is used more than the side rings for most, as it allows for greater control and the horse can change directions without needing to stop to re-connect

My favorites are those that double as snaffle bridles and/or bitless bridles. These types are highly recommended when using lunging equipment such as side reins, chambon, Pessoa systems, Vienna reins, etc.
The reason for this is so the lunging equipment can connect to the bit without interference from the lunge line.

Lunge lines, while usually lightweight, carry reverberations with every movement of the horse, that flow back to the bit. The longer the line, the greater the magnitude of this. ⚠️

These forces can quickly turn a soft mouth to a hard one, which is difficult to undo.

Once you try one - you (and your horse) won’t want to go back to your old ways of lunging!

01/19/2026

It might shock you to learn how much of the bit is actually acting on the lower jaw of the horse - mostly it is contacting the lips!

Every horse is quite different, but this is why I often say the middle 2” of the mouthpiece are the most important when it comes to mouthpiece suitability.

🎥

01/15/2026

COPPER ROLLER BITS

English or western, odds are you’ve seen one of these beauties in the tack room or tack shop. It’s a single joint bit with copper and stainless steel rollers inlaid on the mouthpiece.

THE MATERIAL:
Copper is a softer metal with a higher thermal conductivity, and thought to have a slightly “sweet” taste.
▪️Soft = Can be easily damaged 👎🏻
▪️High thermal conductivity = adjusts to changes in temp quickly. Can help horse adjust to bit more quickly. As long as the bit isn’t super hot or cold, this shouldn’t affect your horse much anyway.
▪️ Sweet = can help with acceptance of the bit and salivation, but this is unlikely to be the main factor.

THE MECHANICS:
It is a single joint bit with straight canons, which will have a “pinch and poke” (or “nutcracker”) effect on the mouth. 👎🏻

The rollers will help the bit slide up and down more smoothly in the mouth, making changes in rein tension or working angle less abrupt feeling to the horse 👍🏻

Alternatively, you could use a single joint with a nice curve to it which is sure to be more comfortable to the horse.

Remember a comfortable horse is far more likely to accept the bit and work into the contact.

Not sure what type of bit would suit your horse? Reach out for a consultation! 🙋🏼‍♀️ 💻

Gray Horse Leatherworks

03/13/2026

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