12/16/2024
Part 4
My Grandfather Rankins gave a close look at the foods enjoyed on farms in the Mohawk Valley before the first World War. In this remembrance he also describes chores assigned to youngsters on the farms.
EATIN' ON THE FARM
Much of what we ate came from the farm and garden. Wherever we lived we had a big garden, and it was usually well tended all thru the season. The first thing out of the garden in the spring was usually the little red radishes, then onions from sets, followed by lettuce and later by onions from seed. Then we had beet greens and young carrots, altho we never seemed to care so much for the greens, but the young beets were always good. Shortly after came the string beans, cucumbers, summer aquash, peas, early potatoes and sweet corn. That was the day! What we didn't eat was canned or pickled. The string beans were canned or pickled, the sweet corn was canned, the tomatoes were eaten fresh, canned, or made into chili sauce or ketchup.
Of course the first berries of early summer were the field strawberries. What short cake they made especially when topped off with good rich cream. There was never enough left over to can. A little later came the blackcaps and red raspberries. These went the same route as the strawberries. Then came the long black berries. There was always plenty of these for the picking. These could be made into shortcake (but they couldn't compare with the earlier berries) eaten as a side dish, canned or made into blackberry jam which always tasted mighty good on a slice of home made bread. The elderberries used fresh made very good pie and canned still made good pie.
The farms that we lived on all had apple orchards with quite a variety of fruit from early to the late winter. There were Northern Spies, Greenings, Baldwins, Spice Apple, Russets, Pound Sweets, Tallman Sweets, and others I've forgotten or never knew. But they all tasted good. Another was the Ben Davis, a red apple with a tough skin and a woody taste at picking time, but by April they had mellowed and were fair eating. Maybe that was because they were the only ones left. We always had eight or ten barrels of apples in the cellar going into winter. The culls and windfalls were carted to the mill and made into cider. At least one barrel of cider and sometimes two or three went into the cellar each fall. When it got too hard to drink it was used to replenish our vinegar tub which was usually kept upstairs where it was warm enough to keep it alive. In those times everyone kept a cruet of vinegar on the table, the same a salt and sugar. Apples then as now made good pies and apple sauce.Worm holes didn't bother us, we just ate the other side, altho sometimes we ate too far. Pears always hit the spot. They tasted almost as good canned the next winter as they did fresh. Tree ripened plumssweet as honey couldn't be beat for flavor. If any happened to be left over they were canned and eaten as a side dish, or were made into jam. Cherries were canned for pie. And grapes that had ripened on the vine after the first frost had a satisfying flavor all their own. They were usually made into jam or jellies for the winter. If one didn't have a couple hundred quarts of canned stuff in the cellar by the time winter set in they were considered lacking in something or other.
About the time the fall winds began to blow thru the corn stubble was the time to begin picking apples, cutting the cabbage, gathering the pumpkins and winter squash and digging the potatoes, turnips and rutbagas. If there happened to be a surplus of pumpkins they were busted up and fed to the cows. The pumpkins and squash had to be stored where it was cool and dry, so they wouldn't freeze and rot. Some of those big winter (Hubbard) squash were so hard they had to be cracked with a hatchet, but what a tasty dish they made when baked. After we had what we considered enough potatoes in the cellar to see us thru to spring and new potatoe time, the rest were sold or traded at the grocery store.
There was usually a barrel of sauer kraut to go down cellar also. When Grandfather was with us he always supervised the making. The heads of the cabbage were trimmed, quartered and the cores cut out. Those cores with a little salt made pretty good eating for us kids. Then the cabbage was shaved into the barrel and after a certain amount had been cut salt was added and then it was pounded down with the stomper, a block of wood about four inches in diameter and a foot long with a handle stuck into one end. More cabbage was added and more salt, followed by more stomping, and so on until there was enough kraut or they run out of cabbage. Then it was allowed to set in the kitchen until it had stopped working. It was then cleaned of on the top, covered with a clean cotton cloth, a wide board and the whole held down with a well cleaned stone. Then it had to be lugged down cellar. Each time any kraut was taken out the cloth, board and stone were washed, the kraut leveled off and the cloth, board, and stone replaced. That cold crisp kraut sure tasted good.
One thing I forgot to mention, when we had plenty of cider, some of it was boiled down to a syrup. This was used in making mince-meat and sometimes it was thickened and made into pie.
When the weather got cold enough, came the time for butchering the hogs. We usually had at least two and sometimes four ready. After they were scalded, scraped and gutted and shaved, they were allowed to hang until cold, then came the job of working them up, The hams and shoulders were trimmed and put in pickle, a mixture of water, salt and salt peter (the salt peter was added mostly to give the meat a rich red color). They were left in this pickle for two or three weeks, depending on the size after which they went to the smoke-house to be smoked with corn-cobs or beech chips. That was a matter of choice. Any kind of wood seemed to work except that which contained pitch. In working up the meat the surplus fat was trimmed off, cut into about inch squares, put into a big kettle over a slow fire to try out the lard. When this had simmered along enough the hot fat was poured off into earthen jars, the chunks of fat or what was left of them were put into a cheese cloth bag, hung in a handy place and the remaining fat squeesed out with a lard squeezer, two boards about three feet long and hinged together at one end. The belly was cut into strips about five inches wide and put down in brine for salt pork. I don't recall that we ever made bacon. The heart, liver and tongue went into liverwurst. Most of the rest of the lean meat went into sausage. Some used to clean the intestines and fill them with sausage. We never did. Sometimes we would have a cow to butcher or a young bull but not very often. Any surplus of meat at butchering time always found a ready market, either at the market or someone who wanted a pig or half a pig to work up for themselves. I've known Uncle George and Aunt Mittie Untz to do that.
We always kept a few chickens, probably not more than 25 or 30 at a time. Every spring three or four hens would set on a dozen or so eggs. When they hatched the hen and chicks would be put in a coop together until the chicks were well feathered. As they had the run of the farm they grew well so that by fall the young roosters made many a fine chicken dinner. I think that the chicken and biscuits my mother used to make were the best ever. When there was a surplus of eggs they were put down in an earthen crock in water or were packed in oats and salt. These were mainly used for cooking when the hens took a vacation.
In the spring of the year when the cows began to freshen and before cheese factories opened we would have plenty of milk for a while, which meant cream for everything and whipped cream for all. Some milk went to fatten a veal calf now and then. These Dad would butcher when they would dress out at about 180 or 200 pounds. These usually found a ready market. Sometimes we made butter for our own use but I don't think we ever sold any. Another dividend of the surplus milk was ice cream made in the old hand cranked freezer.
Another standby from the farm or garden were winter beans. When the pods began to ripen the beans were pulled and stacked around poles set in the ground. After they had dried as much as they would the stakes were pulled and the whole stack was taken to the barn floor until there was time to thresh them out with a flail. Then on a windy day they were taken outside and poured from one tub to another to blow out the chaff and dust. When it came time for a bean dinner us kids had the job of sorting over dry beans to pick out the bad ones and the small stones that might have gotten mixed in during harvest. But those beans baked with a liberal chunk of salt pork always made up for the trouble of sorting.
When we lived in Paradise there was a row of maple trees along the road, these are still standing). We tapped these once or twice, boiling down the sap on the kitchen stove, and making a few quarts. This was a change from sugar syrup my mother used to make for our pancakes, which were our usual fare for breakfast during cold weather, altho sometimes we had oatmeal or other cereal. It seems that we used quite a bit of cornmeal , either for Johnny cake which was always welcome, or cornmeal mush which went pretty good on a cold fall or winter evening.
As for chores it seems I can't remember when I didn't have to w**d garden or hang up my brothers' diapers. Of course every farm boy is expected to bring in the cows and that was my job for a long time. But that wasn't so bad, as at that time we had our old dog, Brownie, who being sent would go backover the hill out of sight and bring the cows down to the head of the lane. My father never kept more than nine cows and as my grandfather was living with us at that time my help was not needed and so I never really got around to learn to milk until much later. The summer that I was ten I started in helping with the haying, and turning the grindstone whenever it was necessary to sharpen anything. When I was thirteen I started to do the raking with the dump rake, but I never got around to do any mowing, or plowing, or cultivating. I don't remember when I started helping build fence. One of the jobs all of the kids got stuck with at some time or other was picking potato bugs and dropping them into a can which held a little kerosene oil. And they all got into the act of picking up potatoes at digging time. In the spring when the potatoes started to sprout in the cellar us kids had the job of sprouting the potatoes, that is, going thru all the potatoes in the bin and breaking off the sprouts to help keep the potatoes in eating condition until the new ones were big enough to eat. We burned wood in the kitchen stove most of the time, and it seemed that the wood box was always empty. Another summer job for kids was feeding the baby chicks and mother hen. Picking stones before planting was another spring time chore. This wasn't so bad because we knew it couldn't last very long. When we got big enough we had the mowing of the lawn to take care of. Ken had the job one day and he figured that Gene could help by hitching a rope on the the front of the mower and having Gene pull in front. Gene had a better idea. He tied the rope to the back of his suspenders and went on that way with his hands free. They got in an argument and Ken yanked back on the mower. The rope held but the suspenders didn't.
All the farms that we lived on had butternut trees close by and we always made sure that we had a bushel or two of butternuts stowed away by the end of fall.
The last year we lived in Paradise I got involved in threshing. In those times most of the farmers put their grain in the barn and later someone with a threshing machine and gasoline engine would make the rounds of the country to thresh for them. John Gardinier had a good outfit and did our threshing for us that year. It took about a dozen men to do the job and as we were a little shorthanded, I was given the job in the straw mow, the dustiest place of all. That was when I learned I could spit black.
I suppose there were a dozen other chores that us kids could do such as taking a drink to the men in the fields, or bringing up a pan of potatoes for dinner or bringing in the washing from the line or folding the babies diapers just as well as a grownup. Anyway we always had enough to eat and clothes to keep us warm so I guess we were not so bad off after all.
My mother made most of our clothes, either from yard goods or from hand-me-downs. She always made Dad's shirts because he was unable to buy shirst with sleeves long enough to suit him. She baked her own bread, sometimes as much a seven loaves every second day. This was done by hand for a long time until she got a bread mixer. That helped because one of us kids could turn the crank after she had put in the flour and rest of the mixin's. Washing was done by hand and the wringing too until we moved to Mohawk. I have often wondered of late years how in the world she managed to do all the things that she did with what she had to work with.
Russ Rankins, 1969
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