17/02/2025
⚡FDP injuries are common among climbers due to the frequent use of finger flexors.
In this carousel we’ll cover the basics of what causes an FDP injury and what to do about it.
The flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) is the most important finger flexor. It originates on the ulna and interosseous membrane and splits into four tendons.
Causes of Injury:
1️⃣ Tissue overload occurs when the FDP’s tensile strength is exceeded.
2️⃣ Overuse happens when the FDP doesn’t get enough time to heal between intense activity.
3️⃣ Forced hyperextension occurs when fingers extend beyond their normal range in a traumatic event.
🤕 To assess severity and differentiate from other injuries that can present with similar symptoms, we created a FREE self-assessment questionnaire (link in bio or www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool).
Recovery Activities:
1️⃣ Reducing aggravating factors is particularly important in the chronic or overuse category.
2️⃣ Active range of motion involves going from full extension of the fingers and wrist to full flexion.
3️⃣ Manual therapy can be as simple as massaging the affected area with your own hand or using an instrument.
4️⃣ Stretching involves full extension of the fingers and wrist while keeping the elbow flexed. (Not recommended for forced hyperextension injuries.)
5️⃣ Submax holds are long-duration holds performed at low intensity and high volume.
6️⃣ Crimp curls involve lifting a weight attached to a comfortable edge by curling your fingers from an open position to a natural feeling crimp.
7️⃣ Block pulls are similar to crimp curls in setup, but rather than curling your fingers you simply lift the weight off the ground while maintaining the same grip position.
⏳ Prognosis: With a good recovery plan, it’ll take about 2-3 months for a mild-moderate strain and up to 4 months for more severe strains.
💪 Prevention: The best form of prevention is consistent, safe finger strength training combined with adequate rest and recovery.
‼️ Injuries holding you back? I offer online and in-person injury evaluation and comprehensive recovery that gets you back on the wall stronger than ever. Link in bio!
– Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS
