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Dr Steven van der Merwe's Practice, Suite 1 Harbour Bay Medical Centre, Dido Valley Road, Simon’s Town, Simon's Town (2025)

17/10/2025

Camino Finisterre – Days 5 & 6

Day 5 was one of those typical Camino rainy days — rain from start to finish! We set off determined but soggy was going to be the name of the day. Making our way toward the village of Cee (or Sey, as it’s pronounced), which lies quite close to Finisterre. There’s not much to report when you’re walking in rain all day — no stopping for photos or long breaks, just keeping your head down and pressing on. The path had a few ups and downs, but mostly it was a day of endurance rather than sightseeing.

When we finally arrived in Cee, we were hoping to visit the local church, but it was closed, so we headed straight for our accommodation. The rest of the afternoon was spent drying out clothes, shoes, and backpacks — a shared struggle among many pilgrims that day. In the common room, we met others doing exactly the same, laughing and grumbling about the rain while hanging socks over heaters and radiators. By evening, the skies cleared, the little bars around the square opened, and everyone seemed to emerge again — cheerful, dry, and ready for dinner. It turned into a surprisingly lovely evening after all.

We went to bed early, knowing that the next day would be our last day on the Camino Finisterre.😢

Day 6 began before sunrise. We decided once again to walk before breakfast, eager to reach the “end of the world.” The road out of Cee winds uphill through quiet villages and soon leads to San Roque, where you catch your first glimpse of Finisterre in the distance. That moment was emotional — the sea shimmering below, the horizon wide. Although I’d been to Finisterre once before by bus after my first Camino, there’s truly nothing like walking there. The feeling is indescribable — something stirs deeply in your heart as you see that final point, much like our own Cape Point back home.

As we descended, the sea came closer and the beaches appeared, dotted with pilgrims braving the cold Atlantic waters for a traditional foot dip. We met a young American named CJ, walking with his mother. They’d just completed the Camino Francés and decided to finish their journey at Finisterre. He was delighted to meet pilgrims from South Africa — surprised, as so many are, to learn how many of us walk the Camino. I gave him one of my friend Andy’s handmade beadwork backpack charms, a little South African keepsake. He was so moved to receive it on his final day — a fitting Camino moment.

We stopped by the first beach soon after for our own breakfast. Thete are three rituals at Finisterre - putting your feet in the ocean, watching the sunset, and reflecting on your journey.

As we continued, the path became busier — suddenly there were pilgrims everywhere, including a South African woman from Stellenbosch, Annchen, walking with two Irish companions. We chatted for a bit and then continued along the final stage. True to form, the last day brought everything the Camino has to offer — steep uphills and downhills, forest paths, river crossings, ocean views, and birdsong echoing through the trees. It felt like walking through a summary of the entire pilgrimage in one day.

The final three kilometres run alongside the beach — some pilgrims walk along the sand, but we chose the paved path, watching the waves crash beside us. Before long, we were in Finisterre — a small town, but with immense meaning.

We stayed two nights in Finisterra. We will make the symbolic final 3 km walk up to the lighthouse tomorrow — the true end of the world. Sitting quietly on the rocks at the top, we let it all sink in — not just the Camino Finisterre, but the entire journey. A time to breathe, to give thanks, and to simply be.

17/10/2025

Camino Finisterre – Day 4

We woke up bright and breezy this morning to a misty Galician landscape and set off early, skipping breakfast since we’d spotted a bar about 3.5 km ahead on the map. The morning walk was peaceful — flat paths winding through little villages and endless dairy farms. Once again, cows were our constant companions!

At one point, we watched a farmer fertilizing his maize fields using cow dung. It became quite an amusing sight — pilgrims waiting along the roadside, timing their steps between his passes to avoid both the spray and the smell! A bit of real country life on the Camino.

The day continued gently, meandering alongside rivers, through forest patches, and past small one-horse towns. The final stretch was truly stunning — we reached a beautiful river valley, with morning cobwebs glistening in the sun and mushrooms everywhere. We counted at least ten or twelve different kinds — some tiny, some large, all fascinating (photos attached)

Then began a steady climb up toward the wind farm on the mountain ridge. Surprisingly, it didn’t feel hard at all — perhaps thanks to our wonderful rest and deep sleep the night before. From the top, we enjoyed sweeping views before descending again, crossing an old Roman bridge, and climbing up the other side to our little mountain village for the night. O Logoso.

Our albergue host was wonderful — a man who once worked in busy Madrid but returned to his family’s farm to create this peaceful refuge for pilgrims. Over time, as older relatives passed away, he lovingly turned each house into part of the albergue. Now he, his cousin, and their wives run this charming place together, high in the hills.

We spent the late afternoon sitting on the veranda, watching pilgrims pass by as the mist hung in the valleys below. It never quite lifted, but it gave the landscape a quiet magic. We enjoyed the stillness, knowing tomorrow would bring rain — so we laid out our rain gear and prepared for a wet but beautiful day ahead. 🌧️

16/10/2025

Camino Finisterre – Day 3

This morning we left the village of Negreira after deciding that we never want to walk on an empty fuel tank again! So before setting off, we stopped for breakfast at the same little bar where we’d had dinner the night before. The friendly gentleman who runs it was happy to see us again and served us a delicious pan con tomate — something the Spanish often enjoy for breakfast. It’s simply toast with grated tomato, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt — simple but absolutely delicious.

After that, we began our climb out of Negreira. It was a beautiful forest walk once again, but the uphill sections were quite something — a good, steady climb for most of the day!

By the time we reached our lunchtime stop, we were ready for a rest. Unfortunately, we encountered the most unpleasant albergue/cafe owner we’ve met so far. There were signs and rules plastered everywhere: “Don’t take your boots off,” “No eating your own food,” “No card payments under 10 euros,” “Don’t sit there — that’s for hotel guests.” She was abrupt and unfriendly, and it was hard to imagine how she keeps her business going — though to be fair, she’s the only option at that stop, so she probably doesn’t have to worry much.

It’s something I’ve noticed on this third Camino of mine — that many locals along the route make their living from the Camino, but some seem to forget that the pilgrims are their livelihood. A little bit of kindness goes such a long way. I’m sure there are pilgrims who sometimes behave badly, but honestly, 99% of pilgrims are simply walking with gratitude and kindness in their hearts.

In all my Caminos, I’ve never encountered a truly rude pilgrim towards a local — everyone I’ve met has been polite, respectful, and thankful. So I just can’t understand this woman’s attitude. Perhaps she’s become jaded over time. Still, I believe life has a way of sorting things out — she has the monopoly now, but maybe one day someone will open another little place nearby and bring back that warmth pilgrims so appreciate.

After leaving her establishment, we continued for about another 4 km to reach our accommodation for the night. That last stretch felt gruelling — the path wound through open farmland, and by then the sun was beating down hard. In South Africa, we always talk about the midday sun being the hottest, but here in Spain, it’s the late afternoon that really saps your energy. Because we’d lingered a bit through the forest and left after lunch, it was already around 1 p.m., and there was no shade to be found.

Thankfully, it wasn’t too long before we reached our stop for the night — a tiny one-horse village with just a couple of albergues and a few houses. The place was quiet and peaceful, and the family who ran our accommodation — husband, wife, and the grandparents — couldn’t have been kinder. They’d clearly put thought into everything a pilgrim might need, and it was such a lovely, comforting end to the day.

We met an american couple, who were walking back to Santiago. They happily shared their experience of walking to and from finnesterra and the reason why they chose to do this. It was a simple one. They also end their camino in Santiago.

After a long, hot walk and a bit of frustration earlier, we went to bed feeling grateful again — for kindness, for rest, and for another day on the Camino.

PS. I forgot to mention today was a cobweb filled day. The morning dew on the spider’s webs are like crystals shimmering in the morning sun.

15/10/2025

Dear friends and family
Thank you so very much for your encouragement, support and love during our Caminos! It was an experience in all levels: physical; spiritual and asking a lot of endurance. Walking 15 km EVERY DAY, for weeks on end, tests you on all levels. But your kindness softened the heavy days, particularly when Anita's sister died and we had to follow the funeral via "Team". We also think that Anita had COVID at one stage, and that caused 4 days of quite heavy going. However, as you noticed, we also shared moments of true magic with you. Thank you so very much for being "there"! ❤️❤️❤️

15/10/2025

You’re so blessed if you meet your love of your life; your life partner; your best friend; your spiritual guide; soul mate and a matriarch to an incredible family. Here we are 44 years later since we met a school, and her 60th birthday today - with ALL our shared experiences, still talking about our dreams and passions. - celebrating and supporting each other. i’m a very lucky man indeed! Happy 60th birthday my wonderful wife. May we share many more experiences just like this Camino!
Love you so much!

14/10/2025

🌞 Camino Finisterre – Day 2

We were so excited to continue our walk towards Finisterre! We quickly realised this route is much quieter — most of the pilgrims here are those who’ve already completed another Camino and decided to carry on to the “end of the world.” The atmosphere feels calm, reflective, and very special.

We started our day from our little village, walking about 2 km to rejoin the Camino route. It was a pleasant start to the morning, and we were really looking forward to seeing the beautiful old Roman bridge and river at Ponte Maceira — and it did not disappoint! The bridge and the surrounding village are absolutely charming, full of history and peaceful sounds of the river. We spent some time there just soaking it all in.

Afterwards, we continued on towards our stop for the night, about 8 km further. The walk took us through lovely forest paths again, although the last stretch was open farmland — and it turned out to be quite a hot day! And, as Murphy’s Law would have it, the town we were staying in was up a hill. So the final climb was a bit of a slog, but still enjoyable.

We stayed in a very nice albergue where several other pilgrims had also gathered by evening. It was laundry day, and thanks to the warm weather, everything dried beautifully outside.

Finding dinner, however, was another story! Even though Google Maps showed several places open, most were actually closed. We eventually found a small bar with a kind and friendly owner who told us the kitchen was closed — but then offered to make the us whatever we wanted anyway. Such kindness really makes the Camino special.

After a good meal, we headed back to the albergue for the night. It was a bit noisier than usual, with early-rising pilgrims setting off before sunrise — probably tackling a longer stage. The mornings are darker now, with sunrise closer to 8 a.m., so we tend to start a little later. Walking in the light just feels better.

Another lovely day on the road to Finisterre.

P.S. I added our pics from the day in Santiago yesterday. I add the pics from our first 2 days on Camino Finisterre now.😜

14/10/2025

🌅 Camino Finisterre – Day 1

After a lovely rest day in Santiago in which we collected our compostela and did the obligatory pilgrim routines - pilgrims office photos, Plaza Obrideiro walk through, bagpipe welcome and eat a great meal including vegatables 🤣.

We set off on the first day of our Camino Finisterre. Our accommodation was about 1.7 km outside of Santiago, so we started by walking through the city again — this time on a quiet Monday morning. Everything felt calm and peaceful.

We had hoped to grab breakfast before heading out, but nothing was open as we left. We decided to keep going, thinking we’d find something along the way… but no luck! As you leave Santiago, you very quickly find yourself in the forest, which was beautiful — walking under the trees again, in complete stillness, was such a gift. We didn’t see a single pilgrim for most of the day.

After about 8 km of walking, we finally found a little café run by a friendly lady who made whatever you wanted — “You tell me, I make it!” she said with a big smile. It was such a lovely experience, and exactly what we needed to refuel.

From there, it was only another couple of kilometres to our accommodation. The village was quiet and off the beaten track, with no other pilgrims around — just the two of us. Being a Monday, everything was closed, but our host kindly pointed us to one small place that always stays open for pilgrims. We had a simple meal there and met an American traveller passing through northern Spain.

We turned in early after a long day — tired but content. It was a peaceful night in a sleepy little village, the perfect start to this next part of our journey. 🌙

14/10/2025

Camino Days 18 & 19 – The Final Stretch to Santiago

We left Padrón (or Pontesures, where we were staying) and made our way towards Santiago. Many pilgrims walk this stretch in one day, but we decided to take it a bit slower and split it into two days. It turned out to be a lovely decision — the route wound through peaceful forests and small towns, and we met quite a few South Africans along the way!

Our first encounter was with Ashton from PE, who was walking all the way to Santiago that same day. Then we met Avril and Keith from Somerset West, who, like us, were taking it over two days. There’s something special about spotting those familiar South African badges — instant connection and a good chat! Later we met a lady originally from South Africa, now living in the U.S. since the 1980s. She noticed our confraternity badges and stopped for a chat, which was just lovely. Before we knew it, we had reached our accommodation for the night — she and her husband were staying nearby, so we shared a bit more time with them that evening. Annemarie was from Rawsonville and now lives in Tennessee. Lots of chatting about SA and how haer husband Grant enjoys his visits to SA.

The next morning, we set off early, eager to reach Santiago before the forecasted rain hit. The path took us through forests and residential neighborhoods, with quite a few ups and downs and several highway crossings — not the most scenic part of the Camino, but full of anticipation. The route was busy and full of excited pilgrims, anticipating the arrival in Plaza Obridorio Santiago.

Right on cue, the rain arrived around midday, and the last couple of hours into Santiago were spent trudging along in ponchos, wet but determined.

We finally arrived at around 2:30 p.m., tired, soaked, but elated. The Plaza do Obradoiro was packed with pilgrims arriving from every direction — the Francés, Inglés, Invierno, and of course, our Portugués. No matter how many times you arrive in Santiago, that moment of stepping into the square never loses its power. It’s emotional, humbling, and deeply rewarding.

Steven and I stood for a while just watching others arrive, all sharing that same sense of accomplishment — we’ve made it. We took our traditional barefoot photo in the square, before heading to our accommodation to dry off. Later we returned to spend some quiet time in the cathedral and simply soak in the atmosphere of Santiago.

We’ll be staying here for two nights before beginning the next part of our journey — the Camino Finisterre. ✨

04/10/2025

Camino Day 17
Today started bright and early—we had to be at the harbour wall by 8:00 for our 8:30 boat trip up the estuary. Our guide, Ramon, greeted us warmly and introduced himself as “spanglish boat guide.” He did a great job explaining everything along the way.

The boat ride was about 27 km and a little chilly on the water, but so interesting! First, we passed the oyster and mussel platforms—each one owned by a different family, with around 500 ropes growing mussels. Ramon explained how they cultivated and harvested, which was fascinating. As we continued upriver, we saw 18 stone crosses along the banks, marking the route where it’s believed the remains of St. James were brought by boat before being carried on to Santiago to be buried where the current cathedral is.

On board we met three Portuguese men who spoke excellent English and were curious about our journey from South Africa. There was also another boat that morning carrying a group from Ama Walkers, led by Sylvia Nelson, a South African who brings groups over to Spain to do various Caminos. They were delighted to meet fellow South Africans and to share a few Afrikaans words!

After disembarking from the boat, we walked about 4 km inland to the Monastery of Herbón, hoping to explore it. People had told us about the monks’ tours and their history of cultivating the famous Padrón Peppers. Sadly, we arrived at “Dead Man’s Door” again—everything was closed. So, after seeing only the outside of the building, we walked the 4 km back to Ponteseceurus.

Not a wasted day though—on the way we stopped at a tiny local bar where we were welcomed with the most delicious tapas: a hearty rice dish with chorizo and vegetables, followed by empanadas filled with veggies. It was a real treat, as fresh vegetables are the one thing we’ve missed most on the Camino! We often joke about the “Camino diet” being mostly beige food—bread, potatoes, rice, pasta, and meat—while every home garden we pass is bursting with cabbages, lettuces, tomatoes, pumpkins, kiwis, apples, chestnuts, and more. Somehow all that abundance never makes it to the pilgrim menus!

Still, a day of learning, good company, and small but special surprises.

We look forward to a good night's rest, as we are now almost at the end of the Camino Portuguese. Padron, for some people who want to walk 30km tomorrow, can walk from Padron to Santiago and call tomorrow their last day, but we will do it in 2 days. 😀 We will explore and mingle our last 2 days to Santiago.

04/10/2025

Camino Day 16
Today we set out from the tiny village of Ponte Arnelas and began our walk past houses, vineyards, and winding roads that eventually brought us down to the beach. This stretch took us close to Villanova de Arousa, the estuary where it’s believed the remains of St. James was carried by boat to Santiago. All along the river there are crosses and symbols of the Camino—we’ll share more about that tomorrow.

Our first stop of the day was a small, peaceful chapel. Gentle music was playing inside, and for the first time on this Camino we found real wax candles to light, instead of the modern electronic ones we’ve seen in most churches. We took a quiet moment there, while outside a couple of locals were enjoying their morning chat on the chapel steps—a reminder that this sacred place is also simply part of everyday life.

The road then climbed steeply through tranquil vineyards, with hardly a pilgrim in sight, before leading us downhill to the beach. The last stretch into Villanova de Arousa was calm and pleasant, with camper vans and caravans scattered about—clearly a summer holiday spot, though very quiet this time of year.

We ended the day in this charming little town, where tomorrow we’ll begin our boat trip up the estuary, following the legendary route of St. James.

04/10/2025

Camino Day 15
Today we left the Monastery of Armentera and walked through what must be one of the most beautiful stretches of the Spiritual Route. Belinda was on our minds and for me my sister Debbie and my Dad who passed away over 20 yrs ago. Funny how death triggers memories - good and bad, but luckily the good memories always drift to the top.

The path winds alongside giant rocks, a flowing waterfall, and a sparkling river. For most of the day we followed this riverside trail, passing by old sawmills and soaked up the sound of rushing water, birdsong, and the joy of fellow pilgrims who were just as breath-taken as we were.

The first part of the walk was a bit tricky, with lots of roots and rocks underfoot, but as the path flattened out it became simply magical. After about 6 km we reached a gorgeous park where locals gathered, and we enjoyed a break in a little tea room before continuing further along the river.

By evening we reached the tiny village of Ponte Arnelas, home to maybe 20 people. 😁 Everything was closed when we arrived, but our kind hospitalera guided us to a little bar around the corner and phoned ahead to ask the lady there to open up for us. She didn’t speak a word of English, but with pointing, gestures, and lots of laughter, we managed to get food and share a simple, heartfelt meal.

A quiet, peaceful night followed in this hidden little village—a perfect close to such a beautiful day of contemplation on the Camino.

04/10/2025

Camino Day 14
It’s hard to believe we’ve already been walking the Camino for two weeks! Today’s stage was a steady uphill, but such a beautiful walk through the forest, leading us to the Monastery of Armenteira. 🌿⛪

Here we’re staying with the nuns, something we’ve been looking forward to — a chance for a more spiritual experience on this route. In the evening, the sisters invite pilgrims to share in their vespers, followed by a blessing. They ask which country you’re from and pray the pilgrims prayer in your language, which makes the moment feel very personal and deeply moving.

On arrival we were warmly welcomed by one of the nuns who spoke English and explained how everything works in the monastery — where we may go and where not. Our permitted areas included a beautiful garden with flowing water, a peaceful place to sit and reflect after the day’s walk.

The monastery doesn’t provide meals, but there’s a lively little café just across the road. After the long climb, it was buzzing with weary but happy pilgrims streaming in for food and drink.

Tonight we rest in the simplicity of the nuns’ cells, grateful for the peace of this place and it’s garden as today my sister Belinda passed away. A sad day for our family. Tomorrow is said to be one of the most beautiful parts on the entire Spiritual Route. We will walk with Belinda in our thoughts.

Dr Steven van der Merwe's Practice

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